A Full Month of Adventures

Jen and I started our month of adventures on January 23 when we went to Panama City to prepare for a short visit to Florida.  We are fully vaccinated and not required to test for covid when we travel TO Panama, but when we travel to the United States, even though we are citizens, a negative covid test is required.  I am going to climb on my soap box for one brief moment, and then I will continue the story. The United States hardly requires masks, and the infection rate is under control enough for the President to repeal mask mandates at the White House.  However, citizens traveling from a foreign country to the US must get a negative covid test to go home after a vacation or to visit friends and family there.  We got our negative covid test and, as resident Jubilado’s, paid $30 USD each with our discount.  Travelers without this benefit must pay $50 USD each, adding to the cost of travel.  I believe that this is governmental overreach.  Immigrants crossing the southern border are not tested and are allowed to board buses and flights all over the country, but as a tax-paying US Citizen, I must provide a negative test to go home.  It is time to stand up to the tyranny of the government on this matter. These useless requirements should be removed.

We got our negative test at the airport which is required to be taken the day before travel. This cleared us to travel to our 2nd home in Florida on a flight the next day.  Our winter guests in our condo were to arrive on February 1st, and we wanted to make sure everything was perfect for their arrival.

We got our negative test.

On Monday we boarded our flight to Florida.  While in Florida we visited Jen’s brother, Bill, and his wife, Deb.  They were snow-birding in Fort Myers, and it provided an excellent time to catch up with them.  They treated us to a great meal at one of their favorite restaurants.  In the morning, we all went over to a great outlet mall near their place, and I managed to buy a jacket and a couple of new shirts.  Note to self…even in Florida a jacket will be necessary during the winter months. We had a delightful visit at their vacation condo, before continuing on to our place in Port Charlotte.

Mom and Rich had been staying in our condo since the end of November.  It was a great time to be sure all the kinks were worked out.  There were a few small mechanical issues that they were able to take care of for us before we arrived.  One other issue required that we replace the washer and dryer before our guest’s arrival.  With the nationwide logistics crisis, this was easier said than done.  But we persevered and on Saturday, the new laundry pair was delivered.  This gave mom time to do their laundry before traveling to Panama.  We also had time to get all the sheets and towels washed before leaving, getting the condo in tip top shape for our winter visitors.

In addition to dealing with a few small problems, we were able to do some other visiting before turning our condo over on February 1st.

Lime Tequila in Port Charlotte is our favorite when we are there

The main reason we wanted to be in Florida at the end of January was to bring Mom and Rich back to Panama.  They had been reluctant to travel to Panama because of the language barrier, and they had rarely been outside of the United States.  On Tuesday February 1st the four of us boarded our flight in Miami for our non-stop flight to Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, Panama.

Loaded and awaiting departure

Our arrival in Panama was late evening, and I choose not to drive after dark when possible.  We had reservations at the Riande Hotel near the airport. This is where Jen and I had stayed prior to our departure for Florida, and they allowed us to park in their secure lot for about $5 USD per day.  This detail is for those of you who may be looking for similar options in your travel to and from Panama.  We stayed the night, had a nice breakfast, and found the car just as I left it.  We loaded up the next day, and began our journey to Coronado.

Our journey took us past Casa de Jamon and Price Smart.  We made brief stops at both.  Casa de Jamon is a great restaurant supply-type food store in Costa Del Este.  We picked up a few groceries there and went on to Price Smart for a few other things.  Then it was on to our home in Coronado.

We arrived in Coronado mid-afternoon, and our special guests were able to settle in and relax in preparation for their full month of adventure.  Our dinner plan took us to Gold Coast Brewery for half price wing night.  There they met a few of our friends, and we enjoyed the wings.

I do not know where to begin other than to take the whole month in chronological order.  That first partial week, we relaxed by the pool, took the buggy to the beach for some sand play, Rich got a haircut, and Mom and Jen got pedicures.  Thursday is our weekly domino game. Mom and Rich joined us each week during their visit.   Throughout Covid, Jen and I got together with the same small group of friends for this weekly event, and it has continued.  Everyone agrees that it was one of the things that helped us all maintain our sanity during the lockdowns and other measures imposed by MINSA to keep everyone safe from the virus.

Low tide. We explored a great stretch of beach
Pool time
Saturday morning at the club pool
Mom got a beach excursion too

My favorite barber gave Rich a trim.

The other constant during their visit was Sunday worship at Coronado Bible Church.  Each week we had brunch after church with many of our awesome friends.  Our special guests enjoyed the church, brunches, and meeting a few of our friends each week.  They were slowly beginning to understand why we love our life here in Panama.  Mom loved that I was an active participant in the praise team at church.

Our first adventure outside our little community was to El Valle de Anton.  We included good friends Diane and Mike for a full day of exploring up there.  El Valle has been a favorite of all of our visitors, with those who have had repeated visits always wanting to return.  There are so many places there that we had a difficult time choosing which to explore.  That day we took them to the Orchid Sanctuary, The Butterfly House, El Macho Falls, and the Sunday Market.  We were disappointed that our favorite restaurant was closed.  This gave us a chance to try another place that just did not meet our high standards.  The market gave me a chance to grab some fresh vegetables while everyone else shopped the vendors.  El Valle is a short 45-minute drive from Coronado straight up the mountain.  The entire village lies in the crater of a volcano.  The climate is a bit cooler than the beach communities, and many expats live there.  Check out my book or the archives of this blog to learn more about this magnificent place.

Ready for adventures

El Macho Falls. We couldn’t get them to zip-line it.

The bookstore, El Hombre de La Mancha, had requested more books which I was able to bring back from the States.  The second Thursday our guests were here we went back into the city to make the delivery.  This was a big highlight for me as, when we arrived, they asked me for an interview and photo session.  They are promoting my book on their social media, and it appears that it is selling well in their stores.  The delivery allowed them to stock it in every store nationwide.  We were surprised to find it among the Panama Travel and History books despite the fact that it is only offered in English.  People who have looked for it in the English section have been unable to find it in the stores.  The price for it here in their stores is higher, but the bookstore is a huge advocate for literacy in Panama.  That makes my day to feel like I am doing some small part for literacy here.

Mom found it in the main store in San Francisco

Karen Ceballos, Director of Marketing at El Hombre de La Mancha

After leaving the bookstore we were able to take Mom and Rich for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants in the city, Michael’s.  Mike Nikolich is the owner, and his place is a very successful for breakfast and lunch. He is a native of Michigan and has spent years in the restaurant business in Panama.  Following lunch, we went down to Panama Viejo.  This is the original ruins of the first Panama City.  It was the first port where goods entered the country and were transported over land to the Caribbean for shipment to the America’s, Europe, and Spain.  This gave our guests a perspective of what Panama was like before the canal was constructed.  This location was repeatedly attacked by pirates who were after the precious gold and silver from South America.  The city was later relocated to what is now called Casco Viejo (old town), where they could more easily protect it.

Mike Nikolich grabbed a copy of my book.
Mom and Rich in front of the tower at Panama Viejo

The following week we caught up with our good friend, and the master of tour guides, Marc Vargas, to take an adventure to the Caribbean side of the country.  Marc picked us up and took us for a look at the Agua Clara Lock on the Caribbean end of the canal.  Agua Clara is the new lock designed to accommodate the huge Pana Max ships.  This gave Rich a firsthand look at how the canal works.  Marc took us from there to the Gatun Locks just adjacent to the Agua Clara lock.  The visitor center there is closed, but we were able to see a cruise ship passing through over the hill.  He continued on down to the Gatun Dam where the Chagres River is dammed to provide water to Lake Gatun which is a huge part of the canal passage.  We went from there across the new Atlantic Bridge.  I call this the bridge to nowhere because, when it was completed, the road leading away from it on the west side of the canal was dirt.  It is now paved and leads to Fort Sherman, Shelter Bay and Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  We visited all three.  The road is now nicely paved right through the jungle to the ruins at San Lorenzo.  It is also paved all the way north to Shelter Bay.   Fort Sherman has been mostly deserted since the United States turned the canal over to the Panamanian people.  Shelter Bay remains a prosperous marina which is protected from hurricanes.  After lunch at the marina, we went through the jungle to Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  This was a wonderful experience.  The Fort is under full restoration to maintain its UNESCO World Heritage designation.  I cannot wait to visit again after the restoration is completed.  Despite the construction going on, this is a beautiful tour.  The Fort sits at the mouth of the Chagres River high on a bluff where it was easily protected from the pirates.  Thank you, Marc, for showing us a great time.

Marc gives us a little detail on the new Agua Clara Lock
The Gatun Dam
A cruise ship passing through the Gatun Locks
How about lunch at Shelter Bay?

This Coate’ came to see where we were going
There was a major restoration in progress at San Lorenzo Castle

Fort San Lorenzo Castle sits at the mouth of the Chagres River
Marc checks out the heavy artillery
Fort Sherman is in ruins…no need to stop here
The Atlantic Bridge

Every week during their visit we went to the club at Coronado Luxury Club & Suites.  Jen and I are members, and we enjoy the entertainment on Saturday nights.  That first week we enjoyed a comedian in the Sports Bar followed by Pascal Turner at the pool bar.  We especially enjoy Pascal, and, fortunately, he played every Saturday night during their visit with us.  Pascal often invites me to sing with him and it has become something for which I look forward.  The third Saturday we took our special guests to the fine dining restaurant at the club, Secundo Piso.  We invited friends John and Barbie to join us.  This was a special treat, and it is one of the places which we highly recommend.  Reservations are required and they are only open on weekends.  In the past, non-members have been welcomed at the resort on Saturday night.

Mom and Rich take the opportunity to dance
We did too
John and Barbie got in a little Salsa

Also, that last week in Coronado Mom and Rich spent three nights at the resort hotel to give us all a break from each other.  Jen and I get free nights every year with our paid membership, and we wanted them to have a special treat.  They hung out by the resort pool and got waited on.  Rich wanted to order foo foo drinks with fruit and little umbrellas.  I wish we had pictures of that.  During one of those days at the resort, we got together for a special late lunch at the Beach Club.  The Beach Club is reserved for members and resort guests.  We had a nice lunch and missed the last shuttle back.  I wish they had let us know that it would be the last, but we were hardly done eating when it came.  The staff sent us back on the employee bus.  Someone suggested that we just stay and sleep on the beach.  That was not an option…LOL.

A bird’s eye view of the beach at the club
Mom and Rich at the Beach Club

Almost every Tuesday we ventured to the movie.  The local theater, Cine Moderno, plays movies in English every Tuesday, and it is a favorite way to spend Tuesday evening in the community.  We always meet up with many friends there and enjoy the show.  For Jubilado’s (retired people), the movie plays for $2.50 USD each.  They have great refreshments also at a reasonable price. I put the movie schedule in my newsletter every week, but recently they have added more shows in English on other days.  I cannot always put all the shows and times, so check with the theater for additional showtimes.  Rich said he had not been to the movies in years, and both he and mom thoroughly enjoyed this activity…even if the movie was not always something we would normally go out of our way to see.

We ventured to Santa Clara to another of our favorite places on the beach, Deliciosa Del Mar.  We invited friends, Lorin and Judy, along for what we hoped would be a lobster feast.  Judy gets the credit for the magnificent sunset photo in the featured position above. Unfortunately, we missed the beginning of Lobster season by a few weeks.  We all still had some great fresh seafood before venturing onto the beach.  Everyone had a great time people watching and swimming in the ocean.  This little restaurant has palapas on the beach where you can eat or have drinks.  They rent them to people who do not order from them, but they are free to patrons.  We all had a great time.

Yes, we got in a swim
Mom and Rich hanging out in the palapa
Lorin and Judy walking the beach
Mom and Rich wade in

That last Friday night in Coronado we caught up with Mike and Diane for a great dinner at Café Med. We always seem to get a great meal there and this visit was no exception.

The ambience at Café Med is stunning

To cap off our month of adventures with Mom and Rich, we went from Coronado to Panama City at the beginning of Carnival traffic.  Travel into the city can be a challenge during Carnival.  We soon encountered the lane inversion and we were sharing our side of the highway with traffic heading to the beaches.  This was not horrible, but it slowed down our journey.  We anticipated travel challenge, so we wanted to have plenty of time to get them near the airport for their journey home on March 1st.  This gave us a couple of days to adventure in the city.

The lane inversion

When we crossed the Bridge of the Americas, the decision was made to check out the Amador Causeway and go to the Biodiversity Museum.  This is something that all of our past visitors have enjoyed, and we knew that Mom and Rich would love the experience as well.  We were not wrong.  The Biodiversity Museum is something that no visitor to Panama should miss.  We went down the causeway for lunch and some souvenir shopping, followed by our visit to the museum.  After the museum, we checked into our hotel at the Radisson Panama Canal.

Check out the huge Fig Tree
Panama City skyline from Amador Causeway Love the new Sombreros!
See the Biodiversity Museum over Rich’s shoulder?

Even after almost four years living in Panama, I look for new adventures when we have company.  Sometimes the new adventures are a giant failure, but this one was a definite high and one of the best experiences for myself.  On Saturday evening we ventured to the JW Marriott (former Trump Tower) for a ringside seat on the 66th floor for sunset.  The pool bar is owned by the casino and only accessible through the casino.  The elevator will only stop at the parking garage or the 66th floor unless someone has a key to stop elsewhere.  When we exited the elevator, we were welcomed into an amazing outside venue with an infinity pool, and our reserved table was waiting for us next to the pool.  The views of the city and sunset were unbelievable.  We enjoyed a light dinner (pub food) and drinks while we watched the sunset.  This will be another of those experiences that we share with others.  If you get the chance, do not miss this one.

The following morning, we were whisked away by shuttle to a boat dock in the middle of the Gamboa Rain Forest where we caught our boat.  It is definitely a small world when every one else on the tour bus is from the Grand Rapids, Michigan area, really close to where mom and Rich live!  The Pacific Queen took us on a partial transit of the Panama Canal.  Rich was so intrigued by the canal that we could not deny him this experience.  When we departed the dock, we had a few drops of rain which quickly subsided.  Our boat went south on the Panama Canal as the guide told us interesting facts about what we were seeing.  We traveled past a Pana Max ship, the largest of container ships.  We would see this ship later passing through the big new lock at Miraflora while we were passing through the smaller locks.  We passed the prison where Noriega spent the last years of his life, and several big dredging cranes.  The Gaillard Cut, which was formally known as the Culebra Cut, is where most of the lives were lost in the construction of the canal.  It is the narrow mountain pass taking the canal through the Continental Divide.  This stretch of the canal requires constant maintenance due to the mud slides and silt accumulating in its bottom.  This is where the canal authority spends the majority of its maintenance budget.

The prison where Noriega was incarcerated
Titan, the biggest crane on the canal
This is a large Pana Max ship. We passed it after entering the canal from the dock in Gamboa
Our transit vessel, The Pacific Queen

We continued through the cut and past the Centennial Bridge before reaching the Pedro Miguel Lock. We moved into the lock which we shared on this journey with another tour boat, a small cargo vessel, and a larger ship.  We were lowered in the lock to the level of Mira Flores Lake.  Mira Flores Lake is a manmade lake connecting the Pedro Miguel lock with the Mira Flores Locks.  Once across the small lake, we entered the Mira Flores locks once again sharing with the other three vessels. Mira Flores has two locks taking us down to sea level.  After passing through all three locks, we moved on toward the Pacific and our destination port.  We passed under the Bridge of the Americas, then past our hotel and the Amador Causeway before rounding the point and making dock at the Port of Panama.  The total time of our excursion was right around 5 hours.  Previously, Jen and I did a full passage which took around 12 hours.  The partial passage was much better, as the full passage took several hours crossing Lake Gatun.

A small cargo vessel entering the lock at Pedro Miguel ahead of us
The Welcome Center at the Mira Flores Locks.
The Centennial Bridge. See the Gaillard Cut (part of it) as we approach.
This is the 1st lock at Mira Flores. You can see the last lock ahead of us.
While going through the locks we were next to this other tour boat.
Moving out from the locks toward the Pacific
Every vessel has a pilot from the canal authority during transit. This is our pilot departing the vessel.
Welcome to Port Panama

Our day was not over.  We went back to the hotel for a minute, and Marc Vargas picked us up for a little tour of Casco Viejo.  We wanted to have another sunset experience from a rooftop in Casco.  Marc selected Tantalo, where we had a bite to eat and watched the sunset from a different perspective.  Marc graciously showed us around a little, and we took in the amazing sites of Casco Viejo.  This is one of those places that really requires an entire day.  If you are fortunate enough to get to this neighborhood, check out the many plazas, the churches, The Panama Canal Museum (among others), the artisan vendors, architecture, restaurants, coffee shops, chocolatiers, souvenir shops, and do not miss the rooftop bars.

A short walk through Casco Viejo
Cool picture…Thanks, Marc
Bring on the food and drinks
the main Cathedral of Panama
Another cool picture. This is a panorama before the sun began setting.

On their last day in Panama, we mostly just rested from exhaustion.  We relocated to a hotel near the airport, got covid tests, and shopped in a mall nearby.  Jen and I are still recovering here, and I imagine that mom and Rich are doing the same in Florida.

Our visitors waiting to be tested with their capable translator
El Hombre de La Mancha at the Metro Mall
They had it in stock

For more information about adventuring in Panama, grab a copy of my book 2 Retire In Panama?.  It is available at Amazon, on Kindle (Kindle Unlimited Readers get it free), and at El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores in Panama.  I am sharing some links below for some of the adventures and sites that contributed to this great month of adventures with my folks.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Casa del Jamon

Coronado Bible Church

Coronado Luxury Club & Suites

2 Retire In Panama?

Tantalo

Panama Canal Tour

El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores

Gold Coast Brewery

Marc Vargas

Biodiversity Museum

Pascal Turner

El Valle de Anton

Panama Viejo

Cine Moderno Coronado

Casco Viejo

Café Med

Merry Christmas From Panama

As we prepare to celebrate the birth of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, we are reminded constantly of how fortunate we are to have a wonderful life here in Panama. It is hard for us to believe that it has been nearly 18 months since we officially made our move here. Looking back over the past year we realize how wonderfully blessed we are to experience life in this beautiful country. We have no regrets and are truly living life to the fullest. Our friends Ray and Diane left last week after spending a little more than a week vacationing with us here. They took our Christmas cards back to the States and mailed them for us. If you are on our Christmas card list you may notice similarities in this post to our Christmas letter. As I sat down to make a final post for 2019, it occurred to me that a perfect recap of our year was right there in our annual letter. Those who read our blog regularly may find some of this year end review to be a repeat of some of our previous posts.

Our biggest news of this past year is that we bought and moved into our own place. We made our offer and it was accepted just prior to the end of last year. Things move quickly here and we were able to close the sale and do a minor remodel prior to moving in at the end of January. It is a 1700 square foot condo in the Coronado Golf Community inside the gates of Coronado. Our building, El Alcazar, is one of the most beautiful and well maintained condo buildings in the beaches area. We are on the 11th floor with beautiful views of ocean, mountains and golf course out every window. Every morning we wake to amazing views and praise God for another perfect day in paradise.

Our first guests to visit in our new home were two of Jen’s cousins Robert Buck and Bill Gilmore. they flew in from Pittsburgh to spend a week in April. While they were here we went zip-lining, took a Rum Distillery tour, Visited The Mira Flores Locks and Bio-Diversity Museum, ate a ton of great food, and relaxed on the beaches. We even stopped along the highway where we bought and ate ceviche’. When one lives on the beach, getting fresh seafood is marvelous and convenient. Buying ceviche along the road was a little unnerving for me, but it was very fresh and very delicious.

While our good friends, Ray and Diane, were here at the beginning of the month, we spent the entire time they were here exploring places that they wanted to see. We took a two day trip to a wonderful bed and breakfast on the island of Contadora. Contadora is in the Pearl Island chain which is where there have been several episodes of Survivor filmed. Not only did the Survivor reality show from the United States film on an island nearby, but other Survivor shows from other countries filmed nearby. One even used the island where we stayed to film portions of the tribal counsel. The bed and breakfast where we stayed was home to crew for some of these filming’s. We spent hours enjoying the beaches on this awesome island and the food in the restaurants was unbelievable. After hanging out on Contadora, we took the Rum Distillery tour. and spent a day exploring in Panama City. We also spent a little time on the beach and went deep sea fishing with Lyn and Ty Gilbert. Ray and I even got a little dune buggy time while Jen and Diane went to the beauty salon.

One thing that we love about Panama is how easy it is to explore from here. While we have been settling in to our new lifestyle, most of our exploration has been local. We did however, take two trips to the States this past year, one trip to Costa Rica, and one trip to Jamaica. We went to Key West in February for the marriage of Jens older Brother Bill Jewell to Deb Wilson. In May we travelled to Michigan for our daughter Hope’s graduation with her Masters in Education. The trip also provided a perfect opportunity to see other family and friends. The Jamaica trip has been an annual tradition with good friends and we were able to continue the tradition. In 2020 we plan to travel at least one time to the States. We also will be exploring Israel, Greece, and Turkey in March, as well as Machu Picchu in Peru in May. We plan to continue our annual tradition of vacationing with our friends in Punta Cana Dominican Republic in April. The first few months of the year we will be pretty jet lagged, however when we are home we always look forward to welcoming guests and meeting our readers when they make it to our area. One thing you will not expect is to see us visiting any place where we can not wear shorts and flip flops. We do not have clothes for cold weather exploring.

It is always a thrill for us to connect with readers. Please, leave us a message or send an e-mail with questions and comments. We had a couple who started as readers of our blog and have since become friends, over for dinner this past week. We have frequent inquiries and we always try to provide a quick concise response. The highlighted portions of the previous paragraphs are links to past posts. Clicking on the links will lead you to those posts. We hope you are enjoying our blog as much as we enjoy sharing it.

Feliz Navidad,

Greg and Jen

Expatriating For Dummies: What the Glossy Magazines and Websites Will Not Tell you.


We follow a great blog entitled Latitude Adjustment which is written by John and Susan Pazera. John and Susan are Expats residing in Columbia. They recently published a post that is seriously awesome. A similar idea has been in my mind for quite some time. Latitude Adjustment captured the idea in my head and beat us to the punch.  We have shamelessly used much of their post to create one of our own. Enjoy!

So, you have decided to try living outside your home country. 

Congratulations for “taking the road less traveled”. It can be a wise and courageous choice if you approach it with an open heart and mind. If you do, you will be rewarded with a lifetime of adventures and memories.

As we approach our first anniversary of expat life let us give you our two cents on how to prepare for your expat life, step by step.

As you do your research and start to narrow down your target country, you will read a lot of glowing reviews on the internet and in magazines extolling the benefits of different locations. Many of these sources paint a rosy picture that may seem too good to be true. A lower cost of living and a more simple way of life are big motivators for people from the U.S., Canada, the U.K. and South Africa. Indeed it is possible to realize the benefit to living somewhere other than ones birth country, but it takes research, work and perseverance.

Step 1: Do  your homework.

In other words, do not take the glossy magazines and websites at face value, especially the countless articles that list “the top ten best countries to affordably retire to” or take any similar approach. Quite often they are promoting these countries with an ulterior motive, and the truth may be somewhat different. Avoid any site or publications that are trying to sell property. Buying property should be the last thing on your agenda before you have had time with your boots on the ground in your target country. Try to connect with as many real-live expats as you can. Check out the online expat forums and blogs. The expat groups on Facebook can be good information sources. We spend a great deal of time on Expats In Panama Facebook page, and continue to cultivate valuable information from there regularly. The best advice we have here is to seek out legitimate information posted by people who actually live where you seek information. Our best information sources have always been, and continue to be, expat blogs written by people who know what it is like to live, day in and day out, in a given location. These blogs are often written by people like us, who benefit greatly from those who went before us and are eager to pay the favor forward by sharing information. Not only are these people very reliable, but you can expect to get an unvarnished view of their experience. Often these contacts can turn into real, live friendships and important resources once you have made the move.

When you talk to people, go beyond questions about the weather, livable neighborhoods, crime statistics, cost of healthcare, and other living expenses. Most of this information is easily accessed by way of a Google search. Instead ask what it is like to access the healthcare system. What are things you love most, and what things aren’t so great? Is the language difference really a barrier? Do you get homesick, and how do they remain connected to their family? What do they miss most about their birth country?

Here are a few links to get things started:

Cost of living comparisons

In-country expat aggregate sites

Expat.com

The World Health Organization’s rankings of healthcare systems by country

Quality comparison U.S. vs. other countries

Step 2: List the pros and cons of your target country and city.

No place is perfect. You have to weigh the options that best fit your circumstances. How is your health, and will you be able to receive affordable care and quality treatment in your new home? What is the process of obtaining a residence visa and how much should you expect to pay?  What about safety and political stability? Will your new country tax you on your income? If you are moving with pets, how complex and expensive is the process, and how pet friendly is your target location? Does the area you are considering have an expat community? Is an expat community important to you?

If you decide to move to a non-English speaking country, are you prepared to get at least a basic knowledge of the language? In our first year in Panama we have learned enough Spanish to survive. We can order food from a restaurant menu, ask for directions, and communicate other basic information. We both know that this “survival Spanish” is not enough to carry on any meaningful conversations. We continue to practice our Spanish skills every chance we get. We have found that the people are incredibly kind and forgiving  when we are butchering their language, and they seem to really appreciate the effort. Culturally, we see two options: jump in, feet first, and immerse yourself in your new country and its people, or take baby steps and move somewhere with a large expat community to make an easier transition. We call this the “training wheels” approach, and it’s essentially what we did when we moved to Coronado, Panama. In a place like Coronado, it is possible to live for many years without learning a word of Spanish. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that, and it’s the “comfort zone” many people seek.

Step 3: Adjust your attitude before your move. Expatriating is not for everyone.

If you are a positive, “glass half full” person in your home country, then you have the stuff for the expat life. Trust us, you will need all the positivity you can muster!
What is your comfort zone and how much inconvenience can you tolerate? If you need things like on-demand hot water, having family close by, the convenience of shopping for anything you want, fast reliable customer service, and mail service, you might be better off staying put. You might also have to deal with infrastructure issues like power outages, undrinkable tap water, sporadic internet service, and poor cell phone coverage, just to name a few. Of course, these factors can vary dramatically from country to country, and from province to province or city to city.

Another very important factor for couples is that you and your spouse or partner need to be on the same page. If one of you are wavering, you need to address that before you make any move. Expatriating has to be a team effort. And if you’re thinking of moving as an escape – from your country’s political situation or otherwise – chances are you won’t be happy somewhere else.

Most of all, don’t go with the expectation that your new home should be more like your old one. Expecting things to happen just as fast, or be just as easy, as they are in your native country will quickly result in frustration, and – in our opinion – misses the whole point of expatriating. Sure, we have plenty of moments when we’re scratching our heads and saying things like “We could have gotten this done five times faster and easier back in the States.” Depending on where you go, expect lots of inefficiencies, government bureaucracies, and moments of sheer disbelief bordering on the comical. But we’ve learned that these moments are part of the experience. If you go with the flow and enter each situation with an open mind, you will get the job done!

Step 4: Get your boots on the ground.

As surprising as it seems, we have met people who actually picked up and moved to their new country after just one vacation visit, or even without ever having visited. We would lay odds that most of these people have already moved back home or will be doing so soon. One little visit, hitting just the tourist sites, is not enough to experience day-to-day life in the new location with all of its pleasures and challenges.
At a minimum, we recommend two or three visits to your target city, and try to spend at least two weeks at a time. Try to go at different times of the year, so you will know if you can tolerate the area’s weather extremes. Rent a small apartment rather than staying in a hotel. Buy groceries and cook in. Try to simulate, as much as possible, to feel what actually living there is like. Does the neighborhood have a safe reputation, and is it quiet? Are the locals friendly and helpful? How walkable is it, and how convenient are restaurants, shopping, transportation, healthcare facilities, and entertainment?
If you have already connected with expat bloggers in your prospective city, plan on meeting up with them. Buy them lunch and get their perspective and recommendations. They will be your best and most current information source for immigration and visa requirements, housing, transportation, health care, and other matters. Remember that information is constantly changing and what you read on the internet is often outdated.

A smartphone is your best friend. Get yourself a local sim card and make sure you’ve loaded, at the minimum, WhatsApp and some sort of navigation app, such as Google Maps or Waze. WhatsApp is especially critical in Latin America, since everyone uses it. In fact, people here are much more likely to respond to a WhatsApp message than an email or voicemail. Other highly useful apps are Google Translate and other language apps, Units Plus (a nifty metric-to-imperial tool for every type of unit, as well as a currency converter).

Step 5: Figure out money matters.

The financial aspects of expatriating should be a central element in your research. You’ll get a feel for the cost of living in your new country after your exploratory trip(s). Remember: relocating to another country involves costs: transportation, shipping, visas, furnishing a new home, the true costs of healthcare, deposits and other fees for renting, the costs of trips back home to see family, etc. If a lower cost of living is your primary motivator for moving, weigh these expenses – you might be better off staying put. And before we go any further, we urge you to live in your new home for at least six to twelve months before you even consider buying property. How will you access your money and how will you pay for things? we suggest that you get a credit or debit card that has no foreign transaction fees and reimburses you for all ATM fees. We use a Citibank card for most purchases and pay it directly from our U.S. checking account by fund transfer. This offers a less expensive means of paying for things than bank wire transfers. If you are collecting a pension or Social Security in the U.S., we do not recommend having your either deposited into a foreign bank account. It is a process to get it set up, and you may be charged fees.

New Year’s eve in our new home

Here’s one they don’t tell you about in the retirement publications! Most financial advisors will not represent you overseas. We maintain an address in the States (one of our children) to avoid situations such as this. To make a long story short, the company that has managed our retirement funds for years would dismiss our business without an address in the U.S. Make sure your investment company will stay with you if you move to another country.

Step 5: Time to make your decision.

OK. You’ve made your first fact-finding trip and you’ve been back a couple of times to try out different neighborhoods. You’ve gotten most of your questions answered and you’ve found the city/town/village that feels like “home.” It’s time to make a decision. Now your most important work is ahead of you. Find out exactly what is required for legal residency – fees, timeframes, and necessary paperwork. What is required to open a bank account, secure housing, obtain healthcare coverage. How do you get a driver’s license, sign up for utilities in your name, and get a mobile phone contract?
Which leads us to . . .

Step 6: Get an advocate.

Getting things done in another country with a completely different culture is challenging enough, but if you’ve got a language barrier, the challenges are multiplied. Even before you move, try to connect with a facilitator or advocate, someone local who also speaks your language and can help you navigate the business/legal aspects of getting settled in your new home. They are available, and are not hard to find if you ask the right questions. One of ours is a tour guide who helps with all sorts of other tasks. He helped us to purchase our car, even before we had our “boots on the ground”.  The other is our realtor, who has become more than a lifesaver…she has become a lifelong friend.

Final suggestions.

We moved in 4 suitcases, 1 cooler, and 1 footlocker.

Expatriating is not for the stuff-addicted. The leaner you go the happier you will be. We know new expats that have moved with a 40 foot container, shipped cars, boats, and motorcycles, only to realize later that the expat life was not for them. Do not bring stuff, especially big, expensive stuff, unless you are prepared to sell it at a huge loss or ship it back if you change your mind. Remember also, that there may be customs duties to consider.

Here is another random thing you might not consider. Is your passport up to snuff? Many countries will not allow entry if a passport is within six months of expiring. If you are from the U.S., you might not be aware that they no longer issue extra pages for an unexpired passport that’s run out of stamping room. If you travel extensively and your passports don’t expire for a while you could run out of pages. Do not renew your passport while you are in the process of obtaining residency. A new passport number will render the residency documents worthless. If you are short on pages or within 6 months of expiring, renew it before beginning your expatriating adventure.

Other important paperwork, wherever you go, is your original drivers license, birth certificate, Social Security, proof of retirement letter or other proof of pension funds, marriage certificate, bank statements, and a copy of your last tax filing. Bring several copies of each. As you apply for residency in your new country, be prepared to present certified, notarized, and/or apostilled copies of these documents. Bring your medical records, and get a summary of your medical history translated into the language of your new country .

Have an exit strategy.

It is something you might not want to think about, after doing all your homework and making a decision as monumental as picking a new country and city to call home. But what if things go south in your new location – politically, economically, militarily? We are not trying to be downers, but todays world is a complicated place. Take Nicaragua, for instance. There are expats who built lives and homes there, and recently had to leave when the country was plunged into a civil and political crisis last year. Are you willing to pick up and leave everything behind? How much of your expatriating investment are you willing to walk away from? (It’s another argument for moving with as little stuff as possible, and for not buying property right away.) You must have a plan and funds for making a quick exit if need be?

Footnote: So why did we decide to expat?

We both were fortunate to retire early. We had one government pension between us and a healthy (not huge) savings. When we did the research we found that we could live for less per month overseas, and hopefully never have to spend the savings. We were anxious to move to a better climate, but did not want to be far from children and grandchildren, so we moved to Panama. In addition to it’s perfect proximity to the States, Panama is also an ideal location to explore from. We are meeting new people, beginning our plans for exploring, experiencing different cultures, learning new histories, beholding other worldly natural beauty, and enjoying a wonderful sense of freedom. These are just a few of the rewards of expatriating that we have and will experience. We wish the same for you!

Blessings,

Greg and Jen

Our home purchase (8 months on the ground)

We are Settling Into Our Condo at Coronado Bay

 

Since arriving in Panama we have been crazy busy. Saturday we were picked up by the car rental driver who took us to our condo in Coronado.  The process was painless. We completed the rental documents and paid for our car then the condo rental agent showed us where to park and took us to our condo. We have spectacular views out every room,  and the balcony is awesome. The housekeeper was finishing up and we chose to get out of her way. We went for a nice lunch and bought a few groceries. We found the grocery store convenient and adequate. Many American brands were available next to the local brands at a premium price. We chose as many local brands as possible. When we returned to the condo we were able to unpack and take care of the groceries. The day passed much too quickly and we didn’t get much time to explore the area. We were able to cook our own dinner and relax for the evening.

Sunday we drove back to Panama City. Driving here is generally a challenge for the most experienced driver. Needless to say, we were a bit nervous to take our first drive. It went off without a hitch. We learned of a great app for navigating Panama called Waze. We downloaded it onto Jen’s phone and it took us right back to the hotel for the night. We had to be at Sevicio Nationale de Imigracion in the city at 7:30 Monday morning to complete the Visa process. We finished up the day Sunday in the hotel with a pizza and enjoyed the Super Bowl on Fox Sports Vivo which broadcast in Spanish (no subtitles). This is another great argument for learning more Spanish.

We were told to expect to spent the entire day at Immigration. I cannot say enough about how awesome our attorney has been. She has been there every step of the way and made the process run smoothly. She had us out of Immigration by 10 AM. The application process is complete, however, they retain our passports for 2 days for the multiple entry visa.  The attorney will courier them to us on Wednesday.  Now it is a waiting game while immigration decides to approve or deny our application.  We have appointments at the American Embassy in 2 weeks to get our Panamanian drivers licenses. As a tourist you can drive on your American drivers license for 90 days. With the Visa process we are no longer considered tourist so it is important to also get our drivers license. The attorney is walking us through that process as well.

 

This was the prize for all the time we spent at Immigration.

With the Visa application process complete we were free to return to Coronado. Although it was stressful getting out of the city, the drive wasn’t bad.  We were back in Coronado in time for lunch and a little exploring around the complex. We walked out to the ocean (the tide was low), then down the beach to the west a ways. We decided to walk east on the beach this morning. Upon our return to the building we relaxed by the pool and met some great people. Our lack of Spanish skills doesn’t seem to matter as much here at the condo. We swam and soaked up some sun for most of the afternoon. The sun is strong here and a little goes a long way. We  are so happy to be able to cook our own meals and we finished up the day by having a great dinner. We went to sleep last night with all the windows open and enjoyed the sound of the crashing waves.

Today we plan to explore the immediate area a little more. This area is pretty expensive. The beach, tourists and expats drive the prices higher. Ultimately, this is not probably going to be where we would live. We still want to immerse ourselves into the culture more. It is an honor that all of you are following with us. Please send e-mail or make comments if you have questions that we can answer. As always, like and share so everyone can find us.

Buenos Dias,

Greg and Jen

 

Nervous Excitement Prevails

As the countdown to departure nears we are both nervous and excited to embark on the adventure of our lives. We have prepared well and fully expect to seamlessly emerge ourselves into  the culture of Panama. We are having a great time following the Expats in Panama Facebook page. The folks on the ground are continuously providing great advise and answering questions to make our adventure great. We highly recommend joining this group for anyone contemplating an adventure like ours. We have used the search feature on that group to get recommendations for our pending trip. We are hoping to connect with friends we have made on that site and will surely be following the advise we have gained through our connection there.

Next week we will be in Panama City where we are looking forward to taking a food tour. Panama is quickly becoming a foodie destination. We are looking at a tour that will take us to sample local Panamanian food and drinks that are considered off the charts. The tour starts with the worlds best coffee and organic chocolates. We will sip local craft beers and stroll to the seafood market where we will sample ceviche and finish the tour in Casco at a famous rooftop bar enjoying the view and local rum. This tour comes highly recommended. We hope to find some great places along the way to take in a full meal later in our Panama City stay. After a day in immigration this may be just what the doctor ordered.

We have been told that during our visa process we have to remain flexible.  All our sources tell us that nothing happens quickly so we are prepared to “roll with whatever”. Our immigration attorney has all the documentation and assures us that everything is in order. We are prepared to do anything necessary to get through the process quickly. We are hoping to wrap up our business in Panama City quickly so we can commence spending time on the beach in Coronado.  Once we get settled into our condo we will start exploring. Coronado is considered by many to be one of the best places for expats to settle. We are going to have an open mind, but think we want to be more immersed in the culture of the country. Our adventure will take us all over the country in search of what may turn out to be our new home.

The next time we post, we will have our boots on the ground. Our hope is that we can provide all of you with a taste of our adventure. Please, continue to follow along. We are committed to making several posts per week from Panama. Questions are encouraged and we love it when people comment and like our posts.  Take the opportunity now, if you haven’t, to sign up and receive our blog posts by e-mail. The link is at the bottom of the page. If this is your first time checking out our blog, please feel free to go back through the archives. That will give you a sense for how we got to this point.

Buenos Dias,

Greg and Jen

 

Panama Vacation Day 1

We are just starting day 2 of our Panama vacation. Personally I love to vacation  at all inclusive resorts. The cost seems prohibitive when making the reservation, but when you are there you never have to reach into your pocket for money. I am not going to review our resort other than to say it is nice and we are being well cared for. It is the rainy season here in Panama and the resort is less than 1/3 capacity. We relaxed by the pool most of the day yesterday and it sprinkled for about 2 hours in mid afternoon.

Our resort is close enough to the Panama Canal that we are watching the huge ships line up for miles to await passage. I am impressed by the engineering of this great wonder. On Saturday we will be taking a full passage tour of the canal. I am excited to share what I learn on that trip. I am planning to also share some video and fun facts about the canal. If I Google Panama Canal I get Wikipedia telling me it is about 48 miles long. I am not a big fan of Wikipedia so I will refrain from just regurgitating what it says there in favor of waiting until I can see for myself how it works.

Tomorrow we are planning a trip to Coronado to look for a place to spend part of the winter. Coronado is about 1 1/2 hours west of Panama City on the Pacific ocean. We chose to look there because it is closer to where we think we may ultimately want to live. There are also entire communities of English speaking people. We are working on our Spanish language skills, however we realize that it is a slow process. It is important to the Panamanian people that we try to speak a little Spanish. Our server at dinner last night was very appreciative when I ordered in Spanish. She helped me when I struggled for a word for something, and complimented my effort. I have found at this resort there are many employees who speak no English. I encountered 1 employee yesterday who spoke about as much English as I spoke Spanish. He wanted to have a conversation with me in English so he could work on his English skills. It was amazing, to me, how well we could understand one another. Kudos to you Vladimir! You are a great asset to this resort. While we are in Panama this winter we will be traveling around the interior where there will be less people who speak English so we know that our ability to communicate in Spanish is a must.

Please, remember to like and share our blog. We would love to have some participation here in the way of comments and advice. We are so appreciative of our new friends here in Panama who are joining in and sharing. As we grow and become better at this blogging thing our content will improve. For now it is our hope that you find it entertaining.