Our Bocas Del Toro Adventure

Last year when I published my book, Jen and I had not been to Bocas. Our trip last week was one of the most anticipated adventures yet, and I was really looking forward to making more great memories with our travel buddies Lyn and Ty.

I would like to share the first paragraph or two from the Bocas Del Toro chapter of my book to set the stage.

No book on Panama would be complete without a little bit about Bocas del Toro. Jen and I have yet to explore this magnificent part of the country we now call home, but I felt compelled to write a bit about it. I shamelessly stole a bit of information about it from their official web site, bocasdeltoro.com. I think that I will be forgiven.

Several friends have visited this magnificent area and most say that the average age there is much lower than the beach area where we live. They tell me that the
islands of Bocas are a continuous party. This seems to me that it may be the place to find the party crowd. Internationalliving.com describes Bocas del Toro as the
best-kept secret in the Caribbean, and that makes it a rare off-the-radar gem indeed. Part-mainland and part archipelago, Bocas is one of Panama’s two western-most provinces, right on the busy border with neighboring Costa Rica.

On Tuesday we left our home in Coronado to drive to Albrook regional airport in Panama City to catch the 1-hour flight to Bocas Town. We allowed 4 hours for the 90-minute drive to alleviate concern about morning traffic. Waze usually works remarkably well for directing us, but on Tuesday there was a protest on the Bridge of the Americas which crosses the Panama Canal. The protest shut down the bridge and we were trapped in traffic for almost 4 hours. Our flight left before we arrived at the airport. We were fortunate to be able to rebook on the 1 pm flight and settled in at the airport coffee shop to wait. Rebooking our flight was simple but cost us $50 per couple. We contacted the property where we would be staying to let them know we would miss the water taxi which was scheduled to pick us up for our adventure. Missing the already arranged transportation cost us another $30 per couple. Another water taxi had to be ordered for us. 

Awaiting departure

 

Finally on our way
Our ride to Bocas Town

Upon arrival at the airport in Bocas Town we were quickly processed through and a taxi took us to the dock. Our boat captain would be there in a few minutes which gave us time to walk down the street and get soft drinks and chips at a deli. Our ride on the water taxi from Bocas to our accommodations on Isla Bastimentos took about 45 minutes, so it was nice to have the chips and drinks. We had all had light breakfasts and no lunch.

Jen an I on the boat to Bastimentos
Caribbean music at the airport
Lyn and Ty on the boat to Bastimentos

It was a beautiful sunny day, and we were all dreaming of a nice swim and getting settled in our cabanas. We were met on the dock by a friendly crew who gave us a bit of information and showed us to our cabanas. We ordered drinks and changed into our swimsuits. After the day we were having the swim was delightful. We were told that dinner was at 8pm so when it started getting dark, we went to shower and met back in the dining area to play dominoes with Lyn and Ty. We also spent a little time trying to plan our excursions. Snorkeling, visiting a native village, and a tour to the organic cacao farm were all high on our list. One snorkeling adventure promised dolphins.

our dock
Lyn and Ty grabbed a Kayak
our cabana

Dinner was delightful and we were all so hungry that we scarfed our food and went to bed. The beds in our cabanas were protected by mosquito netting. I also opted to use Deep Woods Off the entire time which proved minimally effective toward the end. We were deep in the jungle and the actual amenities were sparse at best. We had water sometimes and no outlets in our cabana except for a USB port. At least we were able to keep our phones charged. The only thing a phone is good for deep in the jungle of Bastimenos is the camera. We took a lot of pictures. We were getting a great dose of data detox. It was possible to get an internet connection with a 20- minute walk up the beach, and we did check in on Facebook and looked at e-mail a couple of times. 

Our dining room
This was out typical dinner plate
Our destination for internet

If you think that the end of our woes was when we missed our flight you are sadly mistaken. Once we settled into our beds under the mosquito netting it started to rain. It rained almost the entire time we were there. That gave us time to play more dominoes, card games and feed the mosquitos. Every time the rain stopped, we tried to get an adventure in, but the mud and humidity were unbelievable. I am trying to spin the positive stuff out of our adventure. The problem is that our host was very inattentive and seemed to care less that our plans were being short circuited by the rain. He kept to a strict schedule of breakfast at 8 am, lunch at 1 pm and dinner at 8 pm. Our drinks, excursions and meals were included, but getting a drink other than mealtime proved difficult. He said help yourself, but there was not much to choose from. 

Now that I have climbed off my soap box let me tell you about what we did manage to do…The first excursion we took was to a native Ngäbe-Buglé village.   The Ngäbe-Buglé are one of Panama’s largest indigenous tribes. The boat ride to the village was spectacular, winding through mangrove waterways and taking in the jungle all around. We were expecting an experience like the Embera Village we had visited in 2018, but what we found was heartbreaking. The village was impoverished and rundown, with most of the homes and inhabitants living in conditions like any other slum in the country. We were able to purchase some hand-crafted jewelry and paid for a tour of the village. The tour guide showed us around and told us a little about the background of the tribe. We later learned that many of the boat captains and kitchen staff at the place we stayed were from the tribe. We tried to make sure that we tipped them well when we left on Saturday morning. 

Lyn and Jen buying the handmade bracelets

 

A home on the tribal land
A home on the tribal land
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
Mangroves leading to the village
That is a termite nest. They live above ground here.

On Thursday we arranged to visit the organic cacao farm. The farmer had come to the island over 20 years ago to surf. He ended up buying 10 acres and a small stretch of waterfront called Wizard Beach on the surf side of the island. The piece of land is on the top of the highest hill on the island and when he bought it it was nearly bare. Over the years he has reforested and farmed the land which supplies most of the necessary food for his family and some amazing cacao. He also grows coffee and spices which his wife uses to operate a small coffee café on the site. A small shop offers spices and chocolate along with herbal soaps, shampoos, and lotions to mention just a few. We were transported by boat to the village of Old Bank and told to follow the path and the signs that said Up In The Hill. The locals knew where we were heading and were more than happy to point the way. Once we started walking it only took a few minutes to reach the end of the sidewalk. Once the sidewalk ended the hike was along a trail for about 15 minutes on a good day. Remember, it has been raining a lot. That trail was a slippery, muddy mess and we were not prepared for it. Two of us slipped and fell in the mud on the journey, but nobody let it dampen the spirit of this amazing tour. The farmer showed us how he was producing all this amazing food and spices alongside the cacao. He also showed us how he planted bamboo and trees to protect areas of the farm creating an amazing ecosystem which supports life and animals in the jungle. At the conclusion of the tour, we were invited to sit down and enjoy many of the fruits and vegetables produced on the farm. He called it a snack, but it was a meal to us. His wife did an incredible job in the preparation. If it seems that I overused the word amazing in this paragraph, I will beg to differ with you. Every time the farmer showed us something on his little farm the passion would ooze from him as he said, “it is amazing”. If you ever get to Bastimentos, follow the signs from Old Bank to Up In The Hill. The host is amazing, and the tour is unbelievable. 

This sign welcomed us to Old Bank
Only 15 minutes.
Only 8 minutes
The mud was treacherous.
A part of our path
Almost there
We finally made it. Tour begins shortly.
Endangered Red Frog (very poisonous)
Bamboo
Mini bananas
Cacao
Amazing Farmer shows how he starts new coconut trees.
Beautiful Jungle foliage
Everything is useful
We could not get over the beauty.
The spread at the end of the tour.
The spread at the end of the tour.
Many of the items available that are made from things grown on the farm.

We were fortunate to make it back before it started raining again. Along the way we were also fortunate to see a dolphin, although it was impossible to get a great picture. We got in a swim and cleaned up for dinner. Our shoes were all ruined but it did not really matter. The four of us managed to get in a game of cards before dinner. There was discussion about what we would do on our last day, but no decision could be made before we saw the weather on Friday morning. We turned in early with hopes of spending the day snorkeling with the dolphins at Coral Cay. 

A dolphin on the boat ride back.

Our hopes were dashed by the wind and overnight rain. On Friday morning snorkeling was hardly advised. The boat left for the dock to pick up more guests, so we relaxed and played dominoes until it returned. By that time, it looked like it may be safe to have the captain take us on a boat tour. Right after lunch we left in the boat and he gave us a great tour of the marinas and the waterfront of Bocas Town.  The entire time we were out it only rained in sprinkles, until we got about 10 minutes from the dock. It was then that we had a torrential downpour. The rain did stop by dinner. One of the highlights during dinner here was an evening visit by a monkey family. The alpha male would come into the dining to announce their arrival and then go to a little platform where mama and baby were waiting for a couple of bananas. We were able to give them bananas and take pictures. This was the first time since coming to Panama that Jen and I had an opportunity to see monkeys. With the rain having stopped, the jungle sounds were so different during the night.  Jen and I had a hard time sleeping while listening to the profound sounds in the jungle all around us. 

The monkeys.
Awesome Marinas
Awesome Marinas
Awesome Marinas
Waterfront Bocas
Waterfront Bocas
Waterfront Bocas
Waterfront Bocas
Cosmic Crab Resort

When we woke up early Saturday morning the sky was clearing, and I managed to get several pictures of an amazing sunrise. The pictures were taken from the deck of our cabana which hung out over the Caribbean. We were told that the magnificent sunrise could be better witnessed with a short walk through the jungle to the east point of the island. I opted to forgo that journey in favor of the safety of our deck. Once the sun was up, we packed in preparation for our departure. 

Sunrise on Saturday
Sunrise on Saturday
Sunrise on Saturday

We carried our bags to the dining area and had breakfast. Our host arranged for an early departure back to Bocas so that we could walk around town and see some of the sites. The 45-minute boat ride back was rough and the wind on the ocean was a bit chilly. Once we arrived at the dock, we could store our bags while we walked around the streets of the busy little port. Bocas Town is on the Isla Colon, and is the hub of activity for the nearby islands. We witnessed a ferry unloading fuel trucks and groceries before walking down the streets just coming alive on this early Saturday morning. After our walk about town, we returned to the dock to wait for our taxi to the airport.

La Buga Bocas. Do these people look familiar?
Hmm…Homemade popsicles.
Probably ’bout right
Central Park Bocas Town
Bocas Brewery…too bad it’s closed.

We made some amazing new friends on our trip. There was a family from Spain, a young couple from Poland, a couple of doctors from the Dallas area, students from Muskegon, MI, and the family from Virginia with whom we shared our Cacao farm tour. People go to the islands here to surf, snorkel and explore, as well as investigate retiring destinations. 

On the flight home I got some great pictures of the Caribbean islands and shoreline. The Caribbean shore here is almost all jungle and undeveloped. Other than the north end of the Canal zone and the Islands of Bocas, the only beach communities in Panama are on the Pacific where we live. 

It is good to be home and planning another adventure. If you are enjoying my blog, please, subscribe and share it with friends. Subscribing to the blog will get a notice when I publish future posts and my weekly newsletter in your e-mail. I do not share subscriber information and vow never to spam you. Also feel free to visit our Facebook page.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

We Are Often Asked How We Keep Busy During Our Retirement…

Many times during the year we are asked what we do to keep busy during our retirement here in Panama. The truth is that we do not know how we ever had time to hold down jobs. We find ourselves amazed nearly every evening by the miraculous sunsets and every day seems to have an agenda of its own. Jen has been working remotely a little on the side by the wonderful power of the internet, and I have been doing a little writing aside from the blog. Later in this post I will share an excerpt from my book which is about 90 percent complete, but has yet to be delivered to the editor. I hope you will all find it interesting and provide me with permission to contact you, once it is published, to let you know how to get your hands on a copy.

We continue to have occasional guests and this past week we entertained Jen’s brother and his lovely wife. Their stay was much too short, but we managed to take them on a couple of great adventures. We have recently taken a wonderful trip to spend some time with some of my family in Florida. We found Florida to be cold by our standards having spent the better part of the last two years here in Panama. We spent the entire ten day trip wearing long pants and both of us came home with colds.  I know we have mentioned it before, but Panama is a great place to explore from. In less than a month we will be traveling to Israel, Jordan, Greece, and Turkey where we will explore the holy lands and further our understanding of our Christian heritage. Shortly after our return, we have a vacation planned to connect with friends from the States in the Dominican Republic and in May we will be taking an item off our bucket list by visiting Machu Picchu. I hope to be able to share our adventures on Facebook and future blog posts.

Our adventure to Florida started with our flight into Miami where we rented a car and traveled up through alligator alley and the everglades to our final destination in Punta Gorda. My dad and sister live in the resort community there and have a life similar to ours in that many snowbirds spend half the year there and the rest of the year elsewhere. As great as the area is, I still could not imagine retirement anywhere that does not provide summer activities all year long. Our goal was to find never ending summer and we did that in Panama. I often find myself complaining about the drivers here in Panama, but frankly they are just as bad in Florida. The other huge factor for us is the cost of living. We would not have near the lifestyle in Florida that we have in Panama. We wanted to live where the month runs out before the money and Panama is working well for us. It was nice for us to visit because we needed to upgrade our cell phones and do a little shopping in addition to spending time with family and friends. There are things that we just cannot find readily available in Panama that we like to shop for while we are Stateside. We do shop from Panama on Amazon Prime, however we have to pay for the additional shipping from Miami to our home here. Panama does not have mail service and everything we have sent goes to a box in Coronado. Some people are bothered by not getting mail, however it has not been a problem for us at all. It was unbelievable how much junk was in our mailbox every day. Our daughter gets our important correspondence and forwards it on in an email. We pay our bills on-line like the majority of people living overseas. We also had the chance to meet some friends from our old church in Michigan who winter in Florida, and caught up with our good friends from here that are spending some time with his mother there. We returned from Florida on the day before the Super Bowl which was being played in Miami. It made our return interesting, with all the crazy football fans descending on the town.

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The whole family is gathered for a rare meal together.

It was only about five days after our return that Jen’s brother and his wife came to visit. We managed to take them to El Valle de Anton. Our first stop was the trailhead for India Dormida and the Piedra Pintada or “the painted rocks,” which are petroglyphs, going up to the India Dormida.  This was an adventure that Jen and I had yet to do, and we all found it amazing. We hired a guide and he lead us first to the petroglyphs and on to several amazing falls before reaching the top. The hike is a bit difficult but well worth the effort.  I recommend that only accomplished hikers take the trail all the way to the top and beyond. We stopped short of the top which was approximately 1 hour. Once at the top our guide explained that one would be able to see the rim of the volcano and the Sleeping Princess from a very different perspective. On the hike back down we came across a guy carrying a bunch of concrete blocks up the mountain. Our guide explained that his family had purchased property in the jungle on the back side of the mountain. The real estate there is much less expensive, but difficult to access. He was bringing the blocks to the building site of their new home. Subsequently we also passed a young girl who was carrying one block and an older woman who carried groceries.

The petroglyphs are pictured above. Our guide told us that the painted rocks were believed to be a map painted by natives for others that would be coming after them. After we left there we continued up the road a bit to el Macho. Jen and I took the easy hike to the waterfalls while Deb and Bill took in the experience by zip-line. We concluded the experience at El Valle by having a light lunch and visiting the market.

We also celebrated their anniversary at our favorite restaurant, relaxed on the beach, and at the pool. We concluded their stay with a couple of great adventures in Panama City. Our favorite guide Marc Vargas gave us a great walking tour of  Casco Viejo which ended at a great rooftop venue where we enjoyed dinner and drinks while we watched the sunset. We found it quite amazing how far the restoration of Casco Viejo has come over the past couple of years.

The Cathedral of San Jose is one place that visitors should not miss. The golden alter was saved from the pirates when the priest covered it in tar to hide it from them. The Cathedral also has a wonderful recreation of Jerusalem depicting the nativity. We also visited the Panama Canal at the Mira Flores Locks and the Bio Diversity Museum.  The Bio Diversity Museum was my inspiration for a chapter of my book. I am proud to share this chapter which is straight out of the rough draft and unedited.

      The Panama Museum of Biodiversity Puente de Vida (“Bridge of Life”) is a portal to the richest and most diverse ecosphere on earth. It was designed by internationally renowned architect, Frank Gehry. It is located at the end of the Amador Causeway in Panama City, facing the Pacific Ocean at the entrance of the Panama Canal. The museum inspires as it educates about biodiversity – a complex but essential vision of life that is both a leading-edge scientific theory and a tool to protect our most precious ecological resources.
      A visit to the museum is a must for visitors and residents in Panama. We have visited there three times now and each visit is a special experience. From the air the beautiful building is designed to look like a bird in flight. The first stop on the tour through the museum is a look at the animals that we share this land with. The animals are ranked on a wall as to their existence and some are now extinct. There are others that are only maintained in captivity. The golden toad is one of these creatures. It was thought to only exist in the dense unexplored jungle. Now there is belief that the toads are only still here in zoos and aquariums. The tour continues to a wonderful 360-degree film that challenges all your senses. It even plays on the floor. The film depicts the wonderful nature in Panama, including panoramic views of mountains, rivers, jungle, and oceans. As we continue, we learn how the land mass of Panama was created forming a connection between South and North America. Volcanos created what is called an isthmus between the two continents. The resulting land bridge allowed migration of many species of animals in both directions. It also caused a change in the biology of both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. By blocking the flow of water between the two bodies of water two distinct oceans with different chemistries were created. This natural phenomenon caused the waters of the Pacific to warm and the Atlantic waters to remain colder. As we move along through the museum, we enter an area full of life size cast animals. This exhibit is very cool. It shows the animals in the size and magnitude in which they migrated from one continent to the other. Many we recognize as they are still here while many are now extinct. Much of what I have learned about the immergence of the isthmus of Panama, I learned from the exhibits at the Bio-Diversity Museum. The Great Biotic Interchange or the movement of plants and animals between North to South America began many millions of years ago. Many of the plants and animals found in Panama today have origins in North America while others have origins in South America. Panama continues to bridge the two continents providing annual migration routes for millions of birds. Other animals spread north or south through Panama due to environmental changes caused by humans. Humans first appeared in Africa approximately 120,000 years ago. They migrated to Europe, Asia and Australia between 30,000 and 50,000 years ago. The last continent to have human population was the Americas, somewhere between 15,000 and 20,000 years ago. The first Americans are believed to have come from Asia, with groups arriving at different times from different parts of Asia. Evidence shows that they were primarily hunter-gatherers living in low population densities. These various groups made various uses of resources in the different regions of the Americas. Panama’s environment began to change soon after the arrival of humans. Forests were burned to improve hunting and overhunting may have caused the extinction of some of the largest species of animals. Climate change played a part in the extinction of the largest animals by 10,000 BC, but it is believed that intensive hunting hastened much of the extinction. It is believed that humans inhabited Panama before 11,500 BC, but the earliest reliable evidence of Paleoindians dates to 11,500 BC. They were hunter-gatherers, but little is known about earlier inhabitants. It is thought that those early inhabitants lived along the coastal areas now submerged following the ice caps melting during the last ice age. Before the ice caps started to melt the sea-level was much lower causing the isthmus to be twice as wide as it is today. When humans arrived in Panama, they likely found many species of large animals which included giant sloths, glyptodonts, horses, and mastodonts. Most of these were extinct thousands of years ago including horses. The horses were later reintroduced to the isthmus by the Spanish around 1500 AD. The Paleoindians were constantly moving in search of game and food. They lived in most areas of the isthmus, but their communities were small, and evidence of their population has been found in a few rare sites. As the ice age ended there were big changes on the isthmus. The melting of the ice caps caused changes to the shape of the land as the sea level rose. The climate became warmer and wetter which transformed vegetation. People were forced to find new ways to survive in the new climate. By 6000 BC Panama’s coastlines were close to where they now exist. The warm wet climate caused the forests to spread in the lowlands while the cool-climate plants retreated to the highlands. People arriving to the Americas found many plants that were new to them. Through experimentation they found that many of these new plants provided good sources of food, medicine, and other uses. In Panama, wild fruits such as palm nuts, nance, and mamey provided adequate food sources. By 5000 BC inhabitants were beginning to grow arrowroot tubers, squash, and other food plants. They also grew gourds which were used to make containers. Maize originated in southeastern Mexico and spread along with cassava, chilis, and other crops through Panama into South America by 4,000 BC. Many of these crops remain important today. Farming was important to the region. People learned to improve crop yields by selecting the most productive varieties for their area. This agriculture provided a main diet rich in starch. The people of Panama also depended on hunting and fishing to add fat and protein to their diets. People developed tools to clear forest for farming and pottery to store and prepare food. People in Panama made simple pottery by 3500 BC. Eventually pottery became a sophisticated art form used to express ideas about religion and culture. Monagrillo pottery was crudely fired and rarely decorated. Later this pottery was fired with more care using special clays. Pots were polished, covered with fine clay and decorated or painted.
     Ornaments made of gold, precious stones, bone, shell, and teeth from rare animals like sperm whales and jaguars provided ways for the rich and powerful to show off their status. After AD 700 artistic gold work found in Panama was made locally. The people of Panama learned gold crafting from South American artisans. Gold ornaments were an indication of status. As the population of the isthmus grew, families with rich land and other resources obtained status by trading prestigious items, crops and goods or by hosting feasts. Wealthy elites, headed by chiefs, gained dominance over territories that were called chiefdoms. The most productive land became occupied causing conflicts between neighboring communities which led to warfare. Leaders acquired stature by their success in battle. Barriles was the most important ceremonial center of the Gran Chiriqui chiefdoms. Statues and crafted stones found there were likely erected between AD 200 and AD 1000. The Gran Chiriqui had settled most of the western Pacific slope including the fertile highlands. Later villages were established in the Caribbean lowlands. An eruption of the Baru Volcano around AD 1000 may have caused them to abandon some of the highland valleys. The villages in the lowlands of both slopes thrived until the Spanish arrived. Sitio Conte and El Cano were two sites believed to have formed a single ceremonial and political center. Rich and powerful men were found buried here between AD 700 and AD 1000. These men were buried with exceptional numbers of crafted artifacts at both sites. A ceremonial site with natural columns built of basalt, carved stone pillars topped by human and animal carvings, and small stone animal idols was found at El Cano. Stunning artifacts made by the early Panamanians featured the nature that surrounded them as well as their beliefs about it. This art reflects a time when human imagination and the nature of the area enjoyed rich, rewarding independence. The isthmus between the continents natural barriers made it difficult for local travel. The high mountains and deep valleys extending the entire length of it created a distinct diversification of local cultures. By 1500 Panama was occupied by small chiefdoms. The first explorers and colonists from Europe provided us with a picture of what these societies were like. Where the populations were densest people lived in villages of up to a few hundred people. These villages consisted of small houses that had grass or palm-frond roofs, walls made of cane, and clay floors. Each village usually had a meeting house, an open space for gathering, and a mortuary where embalmed bodies of the dead were kept. People grew crops such as maize, cassava, sweet potatoes, and squash near the village. They hunted deer, peccaries, armadillos, iguanas, and large rodents nearby. Fishing was important along the coasts and estuaries. They fished with nets and traps as well as collecting shellfish and crabs. Food and goods were exchanged in market centers. Panamanian societies of the early 1500’s was medium in size and complexity compared to others in the Americas. Each village often had a different language from the next making communication difficult. Panama’s modern indigenous peoples have descended from groups who have lived on the isthmus for thousands of years. They have likely been here since the first humans arrived. Evidence by means of genetics and linguistics show no signs of recent migrations into Panama from afar. Despite modern upheaval and change, there is a fundamental continuity between ancient societies and those groups who still live in Panama today.
     When Columbus arrived in 1492 the two worlds collided. The people of the Americas had been isolated for nearly 15,000 years from the other continents. The technologies agriculture, and societies were very different from the rest of the world. Panama was like the rest of the Americas when the upheaval of the arrival of Europeans brought drastic changes. The native people were decimated by warfare and foreign diseases; they were displaced by European colonists and their African slaves. New domestic plants and animals were brought in, transforming the landscape. The Spanish occupation of the South American mainland began in 1510. Settlements in Columbia to the east appeared in just a few years, with the Spanish exploring much of the region and subjugating many of the indigenous people. By 1519 Panama City on the Pacific coast was founded by governor Pedrarias Davila. A system of roads was constructed shifting the focus of Spanish settlement from the Caribbean port of Nombre de Dios to the Pacific slope. The arrival of Europeans caused death and destruction of the native people. The indigenous cultures were shattered by warfare, enslavement, and disease-causing catastrophic loss of life. By 1550 the native people were nearly gone from large areas where most of the Spanish were settling, especially the Pacific coast. Today more than 70% of Panama’s population is of mixed ancestry. The Spanish colonists were mostly men who came without families. These men took native women as partners. The people born of these relationships were called mestizos and they soon became much of the population in many areas. Where slaves were common many people were born with a partial African heritage. Spanish colonists, subjugated Indians, and African slaves living together gave rise to a new people and culture. In the remote regions unconquered natives fiercely maintained their independence and escaped slaves found freedom. The Spanish imposed their language and the Catholic faith where they controlled the areas. New styles of architecture and urban organization sprang up. Towns were built on a plaza with a church at the center surrounded by public buildings and homes. A few of the native societies escaped the Spanish domination by retreating to remote jungles and mountains. One group of indigenous people, the Miskitos, originating from northern Central America, frequently raided Panama during the colonial era. The declining native population was causing need for a new source of labor. Large numbers of African slaves began to be imported to the Americas in 1518. These slaves were more resistant to disease than the native laborers. By the late 1500’s these people outnumbered the colonists and subjugated Indians in Panama City and Portobelo along with all the neighboring areas. The Spanish began bringing domestic animals like horses, cattle, donkeys, goats, pigs, chickens, turkeys, guinea fowl and domestic ducks along with domestic plants from around the world to Panama. With the integration of these into the local agriculture Panama’s landscape was transformed. Cattle ranching spread across the country. Today traditional meals in Panama contain crops that originated from around the world. Another important product of Panama during the colonial era was gold. The Spanish built gold mines in Veraguas and Darien. These mines were constantly attacked by hostile Indians forcing the Spanish to abandon mines in some of the remote areas. Shortly after Balboa first crossed the isthmus in 1513, permanent trade routes were established between the oceans. In the 500 years since, Panama has been a global crossroads for people, goods, and ideas. This has shaped history for Panama as well as the rest of the world. One member of Balboa’s expedition, Francisco Pizarro later led campaigns against the Indians of Panama. In 1524 he began making explorations down the coast of South America. These explorations eventually culminated in the conquer of the Inca Empire. The Inca Empire was one of the largest and richest in the world. South American gold and silver were transported to Spain by way of Panama. Around 60% of the gold and silver from the Americas came from South America through Panama. It was shipped from western South America to Panama City. It was then carried across the isthmus to Caribbean ports where it was put on ships for transport to Europe. These riches passing through Panama began attracting the attention of English, French, and Dutch pirates. These pirates were often assisted by Indians or escaped slaves. They raided Spanish shipping towns and mines from late in the 1500’s until early in the 1700’s. In 1699 Scotland tried to colonize Darien, which resulted in a disaster. They were attempting to establish a trade route to the far east. The effort was poorly planned and failed due to disease, lack of food, and attacks by the Spanish. Almost none of the colonists survived to return to Scotland. The failed endeavor nearly bankrupted Scotland, resulting in their union with England in 1707. The route across Panama was short but difficult and dangerous. The trip by mule and canoe took several days and many did not survive due to tropical disease. In 1849 the California gold rush brought a flood of new travelers prompting the construction of the first railroad to connect the Atlantic and Pacific.
     Since 1900 Panama has continued to see radical changes. The Panama Canal made the isthmus even more important to world commerce. Soaring population and rapid development threatened the natural wealth of Panama. The 20th century brought rapidly growing population to the rural areas of Panama. Small farmers were pushed to colonize new areas of forest. By 1950, aided by new roads, most of the western slope of the Pacific was deforested by small farmers, due to growing rural populations. The agricultural frontier continues to advance on the Caribbean slope and in the Darien jungle. Large-scale commercial agriculture began to dominate parts of Panama. Cattle ranching and plantation agriculture expanded for local consumption and export. Today nearly two thirds of Panama’s population live in or near Panama City due to a lack of rural jobs and opportunities. The construction of the Panama Canal was one of the largest alterations to the natural world ever taken on by humans. A large part of the construction was successful in part by working in partnership with nature. The tropical forests and the water they provide are critical for the function of the canal. The first attempt to construct the canal by the French failed due to disease and worker mortality. It was later completed by the Americans in 1914. New medical knowledge helped to control disease and reduced mortality among workers. The United States returned administration of the Panama Canal to the people of Panama in 1999. About 5% of the worlds trade passes through the canal every year.
     Escalating population and development continue to threaten Panama’s rich natural and cultural heritage. Progressive innovative strategies are constantly needed to preserve the rich legacy of “The Bridge of Life” for future generations. Natural resources must be preserved and sustained for the continued benefit of us all. Air and water quality are threatened by expanding development. Using these resources wisely and employing cleaner technology will ensure future health and well-being. Panama is increasingly becoming interlinked with the rest of the planet with the globalization of trade. This globalization will put new demands on Panama’s resources and global climate change will jeopardize its natural environments. The true wealth of Panama is its natural and cultural heritage. Its complex history has helped to create an extraordinary cultural variety. Celebrating this diversity will be instrumental in preserving it for future generations.
     I was able to take much of the history presented in this chapter from gallery exhibits at the museum. I encourage all visitors to spend a half day at the museum at a minimum. New, recently opened exhibits have beautiful aquariums that show the diverse differences between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean.

The book is one of the most difficult projects of my life. I am still at battle with myself as to the sanity of trying to publish with so many other books of its type in the market. It would be great to hear your thoughts. It is loosely based on our blog and chronicles our journey to retire in Panama and many of our subsequent adventures. In the very near future I will be looking for help with the name and cover art. I would be greatly honored to gather your email addresses and comments by clicking on the “leave a reply” area below. As always, it helps us if you will like and share our blog with others who may find it interesting.

Blessings,

Greg and Jen

Another amazing sunset!
Another amazing sunset!

Safety in Panama

Recent world events spark conversations daily about how safe it is to live in a developing country. Yesterday a gunman walked into a gaming event in the United States and killed participants before turning the gun on himself. Our dinner conversation last night was interesting. Does this happen here in Panama and we just don’t know it? Are these events isolated to the United States? The short answer is that this is a problem worldwide. We have done research on the safety of life in Panama and have concluded that we have to be diligent in protecting ourselves. We do not live in a vacuum ignoring local news, however it is much less “in our face” than media in the States. We live in a gated community with armed security. Our choice to live here is not as much about security  as it is to reside in a place we love and enjoy. The majority of crime in Panama isn’t murder. It is crime of opportunity like petty theft (people helping themselves to something that is easy to take). The prevalent crime victim tends to be people who let their guard down or enter into transactions without due diligence. We do neither of these things and have had no problems. That being said, we don’t want to make this political at all, but believe that the news media often dramatizes stories to keep people watching the news. Our blog is another example of security in a developing country. Some of our viewers will notice that we changed our physical address to Panama today. Some may also have noticed over the past few days that when signing into our site there is a pop-up stating that we are not secure. This is false information. We compose on a secure network and pay for layers of security. We get weekly updates that show no security concerns. We pay big bucks to make sure that all of you can read our blog without concern for security. We have WordPress, VaultPress, and Jetpack investigating the source of our problem and will keep it safe or shut it down. Please let us know if you experience problems with our site.

That is about enough of things that keep people awake at night. It has been several weeks since our last post. We spent a couple of weeks at our home in the States and are returning to normal here in Panama. We love our friends and family, but frequent visits to Michigan are stressful. We have a great deal of interest in our home and are looking forward to turning it over to a new family soon. Our advice in this matter is that you should get your home sold before relocating. Remote care for real estate is difficult at best.  On the flip side, we have stated on numerous occasions that you should not purchase property in Panama until you have been on the ground for a year. The real estate market in Panama is quite different from the U.S. and this time is necessary to gauge the market and find a location that suits your lifestyle. Rent for at least a year. We continue to stand by that advice.

Before returning to the States we had visitors at our church from Logos Hope. Logos Hope is a floating mission/bookstore to take Christianity throughout the world. Our visitors shared testimony and told of their experiences aboard the ship. Over 60 countries and nationalities are represented aboard the ship. Many people who live on the ship are from countries where they would be persecuted for sharing Christianity. We were intrigued by this awesome mission so upon our return to Panama we went to visit the ship. Due to persecution, taking pictures was difficult. We are sharing limited pictures from the ship.

 

The ship left late last week to continue its mission. It will dock next in Guatemala. The wonderful people on board carry their message and bookstore to all parts of the world. Please check out their website.

Since our return to Panama we have been crazy busy. In addition to the Logos Hope adventure we spent a day (including the night before) in Panama City. The purpose of our stay was to complete the  paperwork for our Cedula. A Cedula is the national identification carried by all Panamanian people. Most Panamanian people do not have driver’s licenses so this is the instrument that identifies a person and gives credibility for their ability to conduct business. A Cedula is not a requirement for our residency, however it will make it easier for us to conduct bank business and make major purchases. Our appointment was at 7 a.m.  Our attorney had a  solid agenda and got us finished very quickly by Panama standards. We highly recommend our attorney for all immigration needs. We are happy to provide her contact info to anyone by private  correspondence. It has been our experience that her rates are very fair and her ability to get things done are without reproach. The process was entirely done at the Tribunal Electoral. The building was beautiful and well organized. We got our business started at 7 a.m. sharp, and waited the hour for paperwork processing, in a great cafeteria where we enjoyed an authentic Panamanian breakfast. Once the paperwork was complete we waited in line to have a photograph made and pay the fee. As a Jubilado there is a discount for the fee to get your Cedula. We took  photographs below at the Tribunal Electoral.

We made good use of our time in the city. We made reservations for future travel and paid for our tickets using our Jubilado discount. We also learned that one of the future trips planned would require a vaccination, so we made our way to the Minister of Health and got our vaccination. As residents, we got the vaccination at a substantial discount. The experience was interesting to say the least. No officials there spoke English and we had a few communication issues. Fortunately there are wonderful people all over who know a little English and they helped us be understood. We used our due diligence and read the container which contained the vaccine to be sure we were getting what was required for our travel. They then provided a document that states the time in which the vaccine remains effective. This is called a yellow card and we must always be able to provide it before travel. We have committed to keeping it safely stored with our Passports. We have heard that people have been denied entry to some countries without the proper documentation of vaccinations. We plan to travel extensively in our retirement. We are anxious to explore and Central America is an excellent place to explore from.

Waiting for our vaccination
Waiting for our vaccination

We also got in a little retail therapy while in the city. We didn’t really buy much but we had a nice lunch at the mall. We have become big fans of Leonardo Pizza. Our lunch for two pictured below was just over $6 with our Jubilado discount.

lunch for two
lunch for two

Yesterday we traveled with friends to El Valle de Anton where we frequently enjoy the fresh vegetable market. We had purchased a huge clay pot for our balcony and wanted to fill it with tropical plants. Our visit was a great success. Our pot now has some colorful plantings that we will enjoy. We also picked up our usual supply of salad fixings.

Balcony Planter
Lovely tropical plants from El Valle.

Every day proves to be an adventure and it is the most relaxing, inexpensive, and beautiful place to spend retirement. We know that this life isn’t for everyone, but it suits us well. We continue to learn Spanish. The language barrier is only an inconvenience, and most of the time our English is enough to survive daily life. That being said we have volunteered to help teach English to Panamanian people in our community. The people here can get better jobs and prosper with the ability to speak English. We know that God had a plan when he moved us here and in some small way this may be our way to give back.

Dios los bendiga,

Greg and Jen

She Bought The Sombrero

Our days seem to be shorter and shorter as we passed the half way point of our adventure. On Tuesday we made the journey to Panama City, Tocumen International Airport to pick up our good friends. On the way we stopped at an outlet mall and checked out the best places for values on everything from home improvements and furniture to appliances, clothing and pharmaceuticals. We retrieved our friends grabbed some dinner and headed back to Coronado. Since they arrived we have had the best time taking them to share some of our favorite adventure places and great places to eat. We have also had ample time at the pool and even got in a few games of cards.

On Thursday we took them for an adventure to Valle de Anton. It was our second visit and we wanted to hit a few of the places we missed the first time and share the wonderful mountain destination with our friends. Our first stop was Hotel Campestre where the world famous square trees grow. We thought, based on our own research, that the square trees were growing near the hotel and we could spend a few minutes to check it out. Once there, we found the path to the square trees and paid the admission of $5 each. We embarked on the path for the short hike which turned out to be too difficult for our friend. The hike was nearly 45 minutes of steep, and often difficult terrain. Our hosts dogs accompanied us with only two of us completing the entire journey to the one square tree. The hike through the jungle was beautiful, however it would be easy for us to consider this stop a tourist trap. We are sharing the pictures of the square tree hike below and hope that all of you will draw your own conclusion. At the end of the hike we had the great treat to see a sloth. It was high up in a tree near the hotel. We couldn’t get a great picture even with a zoom lens.

Following the square tree adventure we took off for the butterfly habitat. All of us enjoyed our visit there.  The $5 per person price of admission was considered to be fair. The tour was guided and very informative. We learned that there are over 1500 species of butterfly in Panama with over 1000 in Valle de Anton. Our guide told us that the definition of Panama is abundance of species and the butterflies certainly prove that out. We will spare you the details of life-cycle of the butterfly and all of that, but we did want to share with you some of our pictures.

By the end of the butterfly tour we were ready for lunch. It seems that the fondas and restaurants in Valle de Anton may be geared more to the tourist business. We had a wonderful fonda lunch, but the price was almost double what we have paid for similar food at other fondas.

After a brief discussion, we decided to save the orchid exhibit, zoo and reptile house for another adventure. The girls wanted to return to the mineral springs and mud bath, while the guys wanted to make the hike up to El Macho Falls. We talked about the mud bath in the post from our first visit to El Valle so we will tell a little about the El Macho Falls. The hike was short and beautiful with difficult terrain and suspended bridges. The guy at the gate gave us walking sticks which proved very helpful. This is a hike that most people could do with no problem, and well worth the effort. There is a zip line through the canopy but it wasn’t open when we were there. I imagine that it would be great fun to zip line down from the top of the falls. We hiked up through the jungle and the falls were magnificent. When we returned to the base of the falls there were pools of cool mountain water where we took a quick dip to cool off. From there it was a short hike back up to where we parked. It was only about 5 minutes by car back to where we left the girls at the mineral springs and mud bath. We are sharing pictures of the El Macho Falls hike below. The video is only a few seconds long to give you the sounds of the moment. We were not allowed to film or use video equipment at the pools, but we were the only ones there, so there is a couple of pictures. I imagine that clothing is optional at the pools (we took our dip in swim suits). There is a 3 sided wood screen where people can change.

Pool at the bottom of El Macho Falls

We picked up the girls at the mineral springs/mud bath and made our way to the market. Jen bought the hat and we browsed through. The treasures and vegetables were nearly the same on Thursday as our original visit on Sunday. You may recall that the market at el Valle de Anton is called the Sunday Market. We were relieved that vegetables would be available every day.

It was time to head home. We had a message from an agent who would be available to show us through one of our top choices for a permanent retirement home. We wanted the opinion of our friends, so we made the stop. Rio Mar Pacific Tower is a beautiful, newly constructed 24 story (48 unit) condo. We looked at a 2 bedroom and a 3 bedroom unit and it is hard to not love this place.

Balcony of Rio Mar 18th floor 3 BR

It just may be a little above our comfort zone for price. It does include underground parking, a deposito (storage locker), 3 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, large laundry room (accommodates a full size washer and dryer), and appliances. We will share a couple of other top choices with our friends before they go back to Michigan.

We have been working on this post for 3 days now, and could go on for much longer. We will wrap it up here, though, because we do not want to ramble. Thank-you for following along. Once again, we want to express our gratitude for the kind comments. Please catch up, if you missed anything, by clicking on the archive links. We are pleased to have our blog and any portion shared. There has been time when we have shamelessly borrowed content from others. We consider it an honor when people enjoy our content enough to share.

For now, Buenos Dias,

Greg and Jen

 

 

Panama City Day 2

Our day started early at Servicio National de Immigration. We met our attorneys assistant, Mariana, who walked us through the process of “opening a ticket” for the process of obtaining our Pensionado Visa. We started in a line to get a number like that one at the Secretary of State or DMV. Once we had our number we had to wait our turn. There were a lot of people in this room. We didn’t take pictures inside, as the people here are very insistent that the respect in government offices is maintained. We dressed appropriately for conducting business with the government. Jen wore a dress with closed toe shoes and I wore dress slacks with a button shirt and dress shoes. This initial meeting is so that the government can review the documents that we carefully prepared on Thursday. Once satisfied with our documents they then open our ticket and the process  begins. Our Passports were stamped that this process is underway. This is what ultimately will allow us multiple entry into and out of Panama. This is important if we retire here so that we can travel in on a one way ticket. As a tourist, to come to Panama, you must have a return ticket. We then had to wait in another line to pay $5. The real work will be on Monday. We will lay out our Monday experience after it happens. Having been to Immigration and having had Mariana explain everything, we now know what to expect from this process. Monday will be the last day we have to spend in Panama City.

Panama Immigration Building

We will be going to our condo in Coronado Saturday and returning to Panama City on Sunday afternoon for our Monday meetings. We will, also be picking up our rental car. We are going to be brave and drive back on Sunday afternoon. As of now, we will leave the car at the hotel while we go to immigration. The short taxi ride will cost us less than parking at the Immigration Building. The drive back to Coronado is what scares us the most. Traffic out of the city is basically gridlock 24 hours per day. Once out of the city, it should not be a bad drive back to Coronado. This will be our biggest test.

Having completed out business for the day, we decided to explore in Panama City. Our research told us that the best place to discover in the city is Casco Viejo (Olde Town). It is the original site where Panama City was settled, and we found it charming but areas were depressed and run down. There are buildings everywhere being restored, and the restored portion of Casco Viejo reminded me of New Orleans. We wanted to take a tour, however the tours that interested us were limited to Thursday, Saturday, and Tuesday at 5 pm in the afternoon. We made our own tour and visited most of the things that interested us. Our first stop was a coffee shop at the American Trade Hotel.

By the way, taxi drivers will take you anywhere, but seldom know your destination. Be prepared to communicate a nearby landmark. We have been negotiating the price for our cab ride in advance and that has worked well even if the driver has a difficult time finding the destination. We have learned, for instance, that to get back to our hotel we have to tell the driver that it is near the Do It Center (hardware store) in El Dorado. There are very few street addresses to identify location. We got out of the taxi in front of the hotel, and after having coffee we walked back toward Cathedral Metropolitana and the Plaza de la Independencia. We were having a bit of trouble getting our bearings so we ducked into a small shop and bought a map. We were disappointed to find the Cathedral totally tarped for restoration. The Plaza was nice and surrounded by Museums for everything Panama. We may find some of those interesting on another visit when we have more time. We were in search of the famous organic chocolate shop, which we did not find.

We found a beautiful old church, which was not yet being restored, on the walk.

The walk was quite hot and we worked up an appetite and thirst so we went into a sidewalk bar that was very unique. We were seated at a table near the back in front of an open door/window. The breeze coming through was quite nice and we enjoyed a fresh seafood appetizer. We didn’t want to eat much, because our ultimate destination will be the seafood market. We noticed through that open window, a huge gate with a guard. We soon learned that the gate was the drive leading to the presidential palace. We asked if we could walk there and were told that this was as close as we could get without a guide and a prior reservation. Our table was actually inside the gate.

Our walk led us along the waterfront and down to the fish market. Based on what we had found in our research, this wasn’t completely what we expected. It was very interesting and there is no shortage of fresh seafood if you are hungry. We saw the seafood market, the harbor where the fishermen bring in their catch, and found the place where you can eat about any fresh catch. We enjoyed some fresh Ceveche and a cold beer before heading back to our hotel.

Gracias for following along. Please like and share if you find this all interesting. We are getting ready for our journey to Coronado. Please stay tuned for more.

Greg and Jen

We are on the ground and making our 1st update from Panama City

We left the United States early yesterday and arrived in Panama City late yesterday evening. It has always been our habit to fly non-stop when it is available. Our flight included a brief stop in Miami which made for a rather long travel day. The saving grace of the long day was that based on the way and time we made our reservation, it cost us barely any more to fly 1st class. Our Love 1st Classexperience in the 1st class cabin will make it hard to fly coach again. It really pays to pay attention to the details, and Jen is a master at that. Traveling 1st class allows each of us to take 2 pieces of  luggage weighing up to 70# each as well as a carry on and personal item. 1st class passengers also have great food and beverages all the way, including access to the Admirals club while waiting for the flight and on layovers. The moral to the story is that a very long travel day passed by quickly. This trip we were flying on American Airlines. American provided a very pleasant travel experience, so far. We will be sure to give an update once we get back home. Our good friends will be coming to Panama for a short visit while we are here. They will be traveling on Copa Airlines, which is based out of Panama. They have a non-stop from Chicago. We will try to also get feedback from their travel experience. We have found that travelling between the US and Panama can be expensive and have limited options. We are hoping to have a few of our new friends on the ground here, weigh in on the subject with tips and tricks they may have picked up to make the frequent travel between Panama and the US easier. Our flight from Miami to Panama last night provided us with some great views of the sunset in the clouds over the Gulf of Mexico.  We are sharing a picture we got through the window of the plane.Sunset over the Gulf of Mexico

The next Issue of note is our hotel. We have committed to give honest and accurate review of our experiences. We chose the Central Park Hotel for it’s proximity to our immigration attorney and The Department of Immigration. We were also paying attention to the hotel reviews and cost. We were told to expect to spend up to 10 days in the city. That being said we made the reservation for 10 days. We got a junior suite. This is a 2 bedroom 2 bath suite with a kitchenette. There is a balcony and each room has air conditioning. The cost was just over $60 per day. The room is dated and not in great repair, but with all due respect, you get what you pay for. We are not disappointed. The pool is across the street and up 5 flights of stairs, so it is less than convenient. The problems we have had, however, have been quickly addressed. We are not sharing pictures, because you will not be impressed. We are looking forward to checking into our condo in Coronado on Saturday. Our condo is more than an hour outside the city so we will return to this hotel room on Sunday night for our meetings at immigration on Monday. We are hoping to  finish our business quickly so that we can check out of this hotel early and start exploring the country next week.

We have been impressed with the responsiveness of our immigration attorney. We have been hesitant to recommend her before our first actual meeting. We spent most of the morning with her and her assistant putting the documentation in order and being prepped for our initial visit to Immigration. We are pleased to tell you all that she is quickly proving her value to this process. Should you be considering establishing a Panamanian Visa we are highly recommending Mayra Lambolgia De Ruzzi, Attorney at law. We are happy to share  her contact information if you will message us or send an e-mail.

Communication continues to be a problem for us. We are going to make learning more Spanish a priority sooner rather than later. We have been to Taco Bell where we had a hard time ordering. We have also had two experiences with taxi drivers. The taxi experience has been good so far. Neither driver had much English, but we had someone else arrange the rides both times and had prearranged fares. This makes moving about the city stress free. The cabs here charge by zone not meter. Our ride to the attorneys office was $6 and the return was $5. We are still not sure that we will get brave enough to drive here in the city. It seems that using cabs is a great alternative. We have also been told that the bus system is cheap and easy.

Expect more frequent posts. We will report on our experience at immigration and perhaps a walking tour of Casco Viejo soon. Please, like and share our post. We also are interested in comments and suggestions.

Adios,

Jen and Greg

Nervous Excitement Prevails

As the countdown to departure nears we are both nervous and excited to embark on the adventure of our lives. We have prepared well and fully expect to seamlessly emerge ourselves into  the culture of Panama. We are having a great time following the Expats in Panama Facebook page. The folks on the ground are continuously providing great advise and answering questions to make our adventure great. We highly recommend joining this group for anyone contemplating an adventure like ours. We have used the search feature on that group to get recommendations for our pending trip. We are hoping to connect with friends we have made on that site and will surely be following the advise we have gained through our connection there.

Next week we will be in Panama City where we are looking forward to taking a food tour. Panama is quickly becoming a foodie destination. We are looking at a tour that will take us to sample local Panamanian food and drinks that are considered off the charts. The tour starts with the worlds best coffee and organic chocolates. We will sip local craft beers and stroll to the seafood market where we will sample ceviche and finish the tour in Casco at a famous rooftop bar enjoying the view and local rum. This tour comes highly recommended. We hope to find some great places along the way to take in a full meal later in our Panama City stay. After a day in immigration this may be just what the doctor ordered.

We have been told that during our visa process we have to remain flexible.  All our sources tell us that nothing happens quickly so we are prepared to “roll with whatever”. Our immigration attorney has all the documentation and assures us that everything is in order. We are prepared to do anything necessary to get through the process quickly. We are hoping to wrap up our business in Panama City quickly so we can commence spending time on the beach in Coronado.  Once we get settled into our condo we will start exploring. Coronado is considered by many to be one of the best places for expats to settle. We are going to have an open mind, but think we want to be more immersed in the culture of the country. Our adventure will take us all over the country in search of what may turn out to be our new home.

The next time we post, we will have our boots on the ground. Our hope is that we can provide all of you with a taste of our adventure. Please, continue to follow along. We are committed to making several posts per week from Panama. Questions are encouraged and we love it when people comment and like our posts.  Take the opportunity now, if you haven’t, to sign up and receive our blog posts by e-mail. The link is at the bottom of the page. If this is your first time checking out our blog, please feel free to go back through the archives. That will give you a sense for how we got to this point.

Buenos Dias,

Greg and Jen

 

The Visa Process: Plans for arrival at immigration!

Many of you have expressed interest in the immigration process. Upon delivery of the majority of documents and the second payment to our immigration attorney in Panama City, we received an email which we will share in part below. The documents had to be delivered in advance for review and translation to Spanish.

Dear ​Jennifer​ and Greg,

Below is the planned schedule for your visa application process.​ We will need you for a total of 7 working days​.

Note: The schedule does not take into account unforeseen events. You will have to remain flexible during the visa application process.

We will need you to bring with you:

1) Passports. Make sure your passports have more than 6 months before expiration and that they are not torn in any way.

2) Cash to pay for the immigration fees, our legal fees, and expenses.

3) Five “carnet” or “passport” size pictures. (Can be done in Panama)

​4) Original documents to present to immigration​

Transportation:

If you want to use private transportation, we can recommend reliable drivers.

(Here she recommends 7 drivers to deliver us to the meetings at her office and immigration.)

 

Communication:

Please, download to your smart phone the “whatapp”.

https://www.whatsapp.com/

1)  The 1​st ​day at 9:00 AM, I can see you in my office. We will fill out forms.

(Here she provides the address of her office along with her cell phone number and Google map to the office.

2) The next day early at ​7​:​15 AM you will meet with my assistant at the “Servicio Nacional de Migracion” in order to register you. The cost will be $5.00 each. From immigration you will go to the office.

(Here she provides the Google address link for Servicio Nacional de Migracion) The popular address is: Servicio Nacional de Migracion in Tumba Muerto next to the Excel dealer.

Please wear proper attire; No sandals, short pants or sleeveless blouses.

3) ​D​epending ​when​ all the documents are ready, we  will go to the “Servicio Nacional de Migracion” in order to apply for the visa. You will need to leave your passport in the office and $50.00 each to pay for the initial ID cards good for 6 months.

4)  The next morning, you will meet with my assistant at the Servicio Nacional de Migracion in order to get the initial immigration identification cards and the multiple entry visa. The cost will be $50.00 each. Immigration will retain your passport for 2 days, while they complete the multiple visa process. You will have an ID with you from immigration that you can use in Panama. We will return your passport back ASAP.

5) The balance of all the fees for visa bill will be due at this time. We will send you an invoice that is due before we return the passports to you with the multiple entry visas so you can travel out of Panama at will.

We will definitely be taking advantage of the private transportation that she recommends. Having spent a little time in Panama City in October, we know that traffic is a nightmare and the streets will have very few identification markers (no street signs). Her email above eluding to the common address next to the Excel Dealer leaves us laughing. We will have a rental car, but we do understand there is no room for error when reporting to immigration. The other thing notable in her email is the need for proper dress. The government offices in Panama command the respect of being properly dressed. What a novel idea. It is too bad that doesn’t go without saying. The people in Panama are very proud to dress properly when reporting to a government office. It is unfortunate that American people do not share that pride. We will keep you posted as to how this schedule plays out.
Panama Immigration Building

Today’s Spanish lesson will be helpful at immigration. Gracias por guiarnos a traves del proceso de inmigracion…translated means thank you for guiding us through the immigration process.

Gracias for continuing to follow this blog. Remember to check back often, like and share.

Adios

The Panama Pensionado Visa

It seems a good time to revisit the Pensionado Visa process. We have been working on this for quite some time now, and things are going along great. The pensionado visa is a permanent residency in Panama reserved for people who have pension income. The visa, once approved, is good for life. We are going to run down the benefits and requirements today. This all seems a little overwhelming at first, but when we’re on the beach in Panama instead of shoveling snow it will all be worth it. The Panama Pensionado visa has numerous benefits that attract retirees from all over the world.

Panama  is a nation that is very welcoming to foreigners, and perhaps never more so than when it offers retirees a whole host of discounts, on everything from airfare to hotels, movies, and utilities. These benefits are part of a package of  perks that are tailored to retirees of all ages.

The list of discounts and advantages of the pensioner’s visa is lengthy.  Here are a few that we found quite enticing:

  • 50% off on recreation and entertainment such as movies, theaters, sports, etc.
  • 50% off hotels Monday through Thursday (30% off on weekends)
  • 30% off public transportation like buses, trains, and boats
  • 25% off airfare
  • 25% off restaurants (15% off fast food)
  • 25% off electrical, telephone, and water service
  • 20% off doctors and specialists
  • 15% off hospitals and private clinics
  • 15% off dental and optometry services
  • 10% off prescription medications
  • tax-free importation of household goods, up to $10,000
  • tax-free importation of a vehicle, or tax-free purchase of a local vehicle, every 2 years

Retirees are also able to obtain a cedula. The cedula is the national identification card issued to residents. It provides improved ease for getting around and transacting business in Panama. The local people feel more comfortable doing business with people who they know are “documented”. This is a great benefit when immersing ourselves in the culture of the country.

The pensionado visa program is more than a retirement program. It is opened to anyone who meets the requirements. Recipients can never lose their benefits, as long as they continue to meet the requirements. Here is a list of the requirements to qualify:

  • Monthly income of $1,200 for life from a guaranteed source such as a pension, annuity or social security.
  • Or income of $750 per month and a $100,000 minimum investment in Panamanian real estate
  • An additional $250 monthly income for each dependent

The $1,200 per month is a total amount for a married couple.  In other words, it isn’t necessary for both spouses to meet the income requirement.  Dependent children cannot be over the age of 18, unless they are attending college.  Exceptions can also be made for adult children with disabilities.  The $250 can also be obtained in the form of interest earned on deposits in a Panamanian bank.

The process of applying for and obtaining your pensionado visa is relatively straightforward.  The whole process takes several months and costs between $1,500 and $2,000 per person, including attorney fees.  The attorney fees may be less for a married couple or a family when it is done together. There will be a bit of paperwork, and it will all need to be properly authenticated (apostilled).  A reputable attorney with experience in immigration issues will be a valuable tool as you navigate this process.  In general, you’ll need to be prepared to provide the following:

  • Certified letter from the appropriate organization or entity guaranteeing your monthly pension for life
  • Government certification that the source of your income is in good standing, if your pension comes from a private company
  • Proof of prior pension payments (e.g. check stubs, bank statements, etc.)
  • Certificate of public registration of Panamanian real estate in your name, if applicable
  • Police record from the country where you resided the past 5 years (FBI fingerprint check)
  • Marriage and/or birth certificates, if applicable
  • Six (6) passport sized photographs of the applicant (and dependents – if applicable).
  • Certificate of Good Health, issued by a licensed Panamanian hospital or clinic, signed by a registered, licensed physician, indicating that the applicant (and dependents – if applicable) has no contagious diseases and is in good mental and physical condition.  THIS MUST BE DONE DURING YOUR INITIAL VISIT TO PANAMA.

This is where we are in the process. We have a very good immigration attorney in Panama City working on this for us. We have all the documentation except Jen’s pension letter. We cannot get that until her retirement is final. Today we had all the documents apostilled at the Secretary of State. On Monday we will be sending the attorney all the documentation by e-mail (scanned and sent PDF). The attorney will the have them translated to Spanish. We will take our passport size photos with us when we go. The attorney will make arrangements for us to get our health physicals when we arrive in the country. It looks like this process is in good order.

Todays Spanish lesson is very appropriate: Por favor, deme mi descuento de pensionado. Translated… “Please give me my pensioner’s discount.”

We hope you’re finding our posts educational, informative, and entertaining. Please continue to like, share, and comment. By all means, if you haven’t signed up to receive these posts by e-mail, do it now. We don’t want you to miss a bit of our “awesome adventure”.

Fingerprints
Thank-you Van Buren County

FBI criminal background

 

Let the excursion planning begin

As promised, we will mix it up a bit and start sharing our excursion planning. Our home away from home will be in Coronado which is on the Pacific coast, west of Panama City. We want to start out with an excursion that is not too far from home.  La Villa de los Santos is a small town down the coast from Coronado. It lies south of Chitre’ on the Azuero Peninsula, near the Golfo de Panama (Pacific Ocean). The destination is less than 2-1/2 hours from our condo.

The town of La Villa is a quiet town that hosts a couple of festivals every year, but its true claim to fame is that it is where Panamanian independence began. In 1821 the people of Los Santos wrote a letter to the leader of Columbia asking for assistance, and 18 days later they were able to declare independence from Spain. It was at this time that Panama aligned itself with Columbia. The people of Panama felt that they may need Columbia’s protection, should there be, conflicts in the future. This alignment with Columbia turned out to be not so good for Panama. It will be a little more than 80 years, in 1903, when they will claim their 2nd independence.  Panama’s independence is celebrated in November here in La Villa. They also celebrate Flag Day on November 4, and Colon Day on November 5. Colon Day is like Columbus Day in the U.S., celebrating when Columbus discovered the New World. It is the month of November that La Villa comes alive with festivals, however we will be there in February when it will be quiet, friendly, and unassuming.

The  Smithsonian is managing an archaeological dig in La Villa. This is where the first inhabitants of Panama lived nearly 11,000 years ago. The Spanish did not arrive here until about 500 years ago.

We will find very few expats here; and it may be a challenge for us to communicate. Our research tells us that we could easily live here on less than $1000. per month. The food will be all locally grown, the rents are low, and there is very little on which to spend money. La Villa appears to be one of the friendliest and most affordable places to live in Panama. Chitre’, Las Tablas, and Pedasi are expat destinations not far from La Villa. These towns are all situated on the Golfo de Panama, as well.

The Azuero Peninsula will be one of our early excursions. It seems that the area can give us an economical, friendly, laid-back, lifestyle while keeping us near the ocean. We are excited about exploring the interior as well. The mountain and rain forest destinations will be on our excursion list.

This post would not be complete without a Spanish lesson. Today’s word is cocinar. Cocinar means  to cook. Muy bien means very good. La would estar  muy bien a cocinar algunos gran Panamanian la comida. Translated…It would be very good to cook some great Panamanian food. Thanks again for checking in. Remember to check back often, like and share.

Panama map

 

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