Incredible Adventures Boca Chica and Boquete

There are no words to describe how amazing our recent adventures were. We have experienced whale watching on one other occasion without disappointment, but it was nothing compared to our recent trip to the Gulf of Chiriquí in Boca Chica.

We traveled with two other couples to Boca Chica, where we checked into our favorite resort, Regalo. Jen and I stayed at Regalo Resort on one other occasion, and we found it just as beautiful and charming as we remembered. The resort is wonderfully remote while convenient to the public pier at Boca Chica.  The proprietors, Carol and Jenni, have recently put in a pickleball court and converted the helipad into a bahio, where they host yoga retreats. They tell us that the resort is booked at capacity for most of the year, and they’re planning a minor expansion.

Regalo Resort

They employ a full-time chef, a bartender, and maid staff to serve the guests. The entire staff met us upon our arrival. They collected our bags and whisked them away to our suites while we checked in and were treated to a welcome cocktail at the bar. Dinner is typically offered in two choices, with other options for those with special diets or needs. We were given our options for dinner and asked what time we wanted to eat.

A table was set up on the pool deck for our party of six and another for the other guests in the resort. The other guests were a family of four from Florida who had spent the day deep sea fishing. They told us of the magnificent time they had and were asking Carol how they could transport their catch back to Florida. This seemed to me a near impossibility, but Carol was preparing their fish for the trip, packing it in a cooler with ice.

The resort can arrange any adventure from the public pier at Boca Chica. On our prior trip, we did an island-hopping boat tour with an excellent captain, Victor. Our tour started on Isla Bolanos, where we could swim and soak in the wondrous sights and sounds of the Gulf of Chiriquí. The second stop was Isla Paridas, where we enjoyed a great lunch. It was the only island with commerce. We saw just one small house serving drinks and fresh seafood, so we took the opportunity to restock our cooler and have Red Snapper served with salad, rice, and patacones. Following lunch, we swam on the beautiful beach before heading to our third island, Isla Gomez. It was a tiny, uninhabited island with a perfect beach. We did not have to share this island with anyone else. Captain Victor gave us an hour to swim and enjoy the beach before returning us to the pier at Boca Chica.

That day, we shared the boat with a Panamanian family. The couple and their well-behaved children were bi-lingual and spoke English to us. They ended up joining us for dinner at Regalo. It’s no surprise that they have become lifelong friends. It always amazes us how welcoming and friendly the Panamanian people are.

After returning to the pier, we walked around a bit in the village. There was truly little to see and do there. Boca Chica is a basic little town of fishermen and tourist boat excursions. This is a popular destination for whale watching. The whales migrate to the Gulf of Chiriquí from August to October. This is where whales give birth because of its safe, warm waters. Otherwise, everyone there had an agenda of fishing, sightseeing, or scuba diving. This was not whale season, so we saw no whales on our excursion. There were no cute little shops or restaurants, so we returned to Regalo for a relaxed evening meal with our new friends.

Our priority on this trip to Boca Chica was to see whales. From July to October, the humpback whales arrive in the Gulf of Chiriquí after their long journey from Antarctica to have their young and teach them to survive. The waters here are perfect for breeding as they must be warm and safe. This offers well-being and protection to their babies, who must be born with fat to resist the cold temperatures.

Adult males measure between 12 and 14 meters, somewhat smaller than females. An adult humpback whale can measure between 15 and 18 meters and live up to 50 years. Its weight ranges between 25 and 40 tons.

On Tuesday, we went to the pier, where we met our guide for the day, Jay. He proved to be an expert at finding whales. Although the location of the whales is sometimes tricky, Jay knew where to go and gave us the show of a lifetime.

Our day included a stop at Isla Paridas, where we had stopped on our previous adventure, to have a delightful lunch of fresh langostinos (shrimp).

Our day ended at the resort, where we swam in the beautiful infinity pool, enjoying drinks prepared and served by the bartender while the chef prepared another delightful meal.

My Filet Mignon with mashed potatoes and salad.

After extreme adventuring, we visited with our gracious hosts, and all turned in early. Carol and Jenni posed for a fan photo. We don’t often endorse or recommend places unless we would return. This is a place we will return again and again. See my September 11, 2023, issue 154 Newsletter for a link to this magnificent place.

Jenni and Carol

I would be remiss if I didn’t say here that the breakfast at Regalo is delightful and included in the price for a night. They served fruit and a breakfast selection with juice and fresh coffee from the Chiriquí highlands of Boquete both mornings. One of the couples we traveled with arranged an extra day in Boquete to tour a local coffee finca (farm).

Following our delightful breakfast on Wednesday morning, we drove to Boquete. The drive was beautiful and relatively short. If you’ve ever driven in Panama, you know the roads in parts of the country are not so great. The Inter-Americana Highway from Santiago to David is relatively new and in excellent shape.

On our initial trip to Boquete, we journeyed in one day. The entire trip is about 400km, taking approximately five hours without stops. We’ve been there three times with no shortage of adventure stories.

Boquete is a small mountain town in Panama. It’s located in the westernmost Province of Chiriquí, about 60 kilometers (37 mi) from the border with Costa Rica, and lies on the Caldera River in Panama’s green mountain highlands. Because of its elevation of 1,200 meters (3,900 ft) above sea level, its climate is cooler than the lowlands. Its scenic location, temperature, and natural environment make it popular with Panamanians and attracts tourists and retirees from all over the world.

Archaeological studies support the idea that Boquete’s history started between 300 AD to 600 BC. In this region, you can find petroglyphs (prehistoric rock carvings) that are evidence of the ancient settlements in the area. During the Spanish colonization, the highland area was an isolated refuge for the indigenous tribes like the Ngöbe and the Misquito due to the topographic terrain. The colonization of Boquete began in the second half of the nineteenth century by locals from Bugaba, Gualaca, and David and foreigners from Yugoslavia, France, Germany, and other European countries. Colonizers also arrived from the United States, starting the first coffee plantations and agricultural farms. In Spanish, the word Boquete means ‘gap or opening.’ It was through this gap that curious gold seekers trekked, looking for a cheaper and quicker way to the Pacific. By the early twentieth century, several villages had been populated: Lino, Quiel, Bajo Mono, Los Naranjos, and Bajo Boquete, which now is the town center of the district.

The town of Boquete has a population of around 25,000, including around 2500 expats from all over the world. It also has some of the most beautiful waterfalls, flowers, hundreds of bird species, butterflies, and hiking.

It should be no surprise that Boquete hosts a couple of Panama’s biggest festival celebrations. It is the perfect setting to stimulate artistic ability and creative talent, making it ideal for hosting the annual Boquete Jazz and Blues Festival.

Boquete boasts a vibrant music and arts scene. The annual Boquete Jazz Festival was founded in 2007, the second-largest jazz festival in the country after the Panama City Jazz Festival. Having been renamed Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival, it’s held annually in February. Since 2012, the event has showcased first-class international Blues acts and notable Panamanian and Latin American artists featuring Jazz and Latin American music styles. It was the first festival in Panama to do so. These entertainers are a great success! According to friends who have attended the festival, it features outstanding talent. As people walk about, they say there are smiles on every face, dancing, and great fun. This has been described as a great community event for all.  My information tells me the festival is moving from Boquete in 2024 to the Buenaventura Resort on the Pacific Riviera.

The Boquete Flower Festival has been held annually from around January 11th through the 21st since 1984. Our good friends attended the festival, and this is how they described what they found. The festival is held in the Feria grounds on the east bank of the Boquete River near an old cable suspension bridge. The bridge is indeed an engineering wonder as, despite its dilapidated condition, it still stands and carries traffic. They found a festival atmosphere with at least 200 stalls. Local artisans displayed everything from local native costumes to coffee, handicrafts, food, beer stands, and magnificent flowers. The army of gardeners had done a masterful job keeping the 30,000-plus blooms bright and well-watered despite the drying winds and tropical sun. Given the altitude and climate, it was apparent that the organizers had gone to great lengths to pick the most attractive and durable plants. Our friends saw everything from petunias and pansies to beautiful bright chrysanthemums. In the center, they found a display by the local orchid society. These blooms were indeed the jewel in the Feria’s crown and as exotic and exquisite as the orchid name implies.

On their drive from David north to Boquete, they noticed, with the change in climate from hot and humid to cool and refreshing, multicolored flowers were abundant along the roadside and in the ditches. It was easy for them to understand why Boquete is Panama’s flower capital. They also told me that missing the vegetable display would have been tragic. The abundant vegetables in the area are responsible for the fantastic food found in the restaurants locally. Based on my experience, Boquete always has something great to enjoy.

Visitors to Boquete are frequently invited to visit the Tuesday Market because it is such an integral part of the community. The Tuesday Market activities have been a big success, both commercially speaking and in integrating the locals and the expatriates working side by side. Any Tuesday visit to Boquete must include a visit to the Market. We have visited there on two previous occasions.

The last time we were there, we took a hike on the Pipeline Trail, explored the countryside, and hiked the hanging bridges of Tree Trek. We were traveling with my writing group, and Detective Larry was conceived at the same hotel where we stayed on this trip. I am anxious to share the first of the Detective Larry Saunders Mysteries, Murder in Eagle Cove. It is scheduled for release on November 1st, 2023. Newsletter subscribers are getting advance notice of special events and some surprises. Subscribing to the Newsletter is simple and free. You likely received an invitation to subscribe when you opened this blog post. If you didn’t get the invitation or skipped over it, send me a private message. Include your name and email address so I can add you to the distribution list.

Our agenda for this visit was to enjoy some outstanding local restaurants and take an excursion to the top of Volcan Baru. The Volcan excursion was one I never thought we would be able to do. The journey to the top is at least a four-hour hike in each direction. For an old, out-of-shape senior citizen, this is unattainable. Fortunately, we found a tour company offering transportation to the summit by four-wheel drive ATV.

We arrived in town with time to explore before stopping at a local favorite, Big Daddy’s, for lunch. After a relaxing lunch, we went to Boquete Garden Inn for the next two nights. The inn has a happy hour at six every evening and a complimentary breakfast each morning. We settled into our rooms and met our fellow travelers for a glass of wine in the hotel’s delightful bar. Our dinner reservations were at The Rock. It’s considered one of the finest restaurants in town. I may get hate mail for this, but let’s say it’s not likely to be a place where I would return. Our dinner bill was the highest of our adventure, and it was just average food. The highlight of the experience was a marshmallow roast at the firepit in the outside dining area after our meal.

We met our tour operator on Thursday morning in front of the inn at 3:30 a.m. The early departure meant we would drive to the summit of Volcán Barú in the dark to see the sunrise over the Caribbean if the weather cooperated.

Volcán Barú, also called Volcán de Chiriquí, is an active stratovolcano and the tallest mountain in Panama, at 3,474 meters (11,398 ft) high. It is about 35 km (22 mi) from the border of Costa Rica. It’s also the twelfth-highest peak in Central America.

Due to its height and the narrowness of the isthmus of Panama, it is possible (though relatively rare) to see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from Volcán Barú’s peak on a clear day.

The small town of Volcán is at the base of Volcán Barú. The erosion of a small river there exposed an ancient forest below, dated to about 1000 years old. Volcán Barú is surrounded by a fertile area of cool highlands drained by the Chiriquí Viejo and Caldera Rivers. The towns of Volcán and Cerro Punta can be found on its western side, while Boquete is on the eastern flank.

The occasional fall of hail or ice pellets has been reported on the summit, where the minimum temperature can be below 0 °C (32 °F), and frost formation is frequent during the dry season. The peak is host to a large installation of broadcast towers.

It has been determined that El Barú volcano is active and part of the extension of the Central American Volcanic Arc in Panama. In 2006, an earthquake swarm was registered in the Volcán Barú area. This was not the first; researchers cite at least three other seismic events recorded recently (1930, 1965, 1985).

In 2007, the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), in cooperation with Panama’s Science, Technology, and Innovation Secretariat (SENACYT) and the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID), published a study on different aspects of Volcán Barú. The report outlined potential hazard areas, rock composition, and areas affected by previous eruptions; there is evidence that during the last eruption, which occurred in the 16th century, the debris avalanche deposits covered an area reaching as far as the Pacific Ocean (the largest documented in Central America and nearly ten times the area covered by the Mt. St. Helens debris avalanche in 1980).

Data collected at several locations from four previous eruptions during the last 1600 years indicate that a new eruption would last several years, putting population and costly infrastructure at risk in the areas surrounding the volcano. Typical events during such volcanic episodes include pyroclastic flows, super-heated gas clouds rapidly descending the volcano’s east flank, conceivably reaching as far as Boquete, Alto Boquete, and the Caldera River, and fallout of ash and other particles ranging in size from dust to one-meter blocks, known as tephra, causing fires, roof collapses, water contamination, crop damage and eye and lung irritation, especially among elders and infants. A third type of event, mud and debris flows, known as lahars, create landslides, obstruct river courses, and could have long-term effects in the zone. The severity of these events is directly related to the lava flows and their interaction with underground water deposits.

The volcano was declared Volcán Barú National Park in 1976, with an area of 14,325 ha (35,400 acres). It’s a part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor. Fauna includes the black guan, black-and-white hawk-eagle, Underwood’s water mouse, volcano junco, wren thrush, and yellow-thighed brush finch. Over 250 species of birds have been identified within the park, and all five species of big cats live here as well. The national park protects various habitats, including humid montane forests, low humid montane forests, and montane rainforests.

The park’s most popular hiking trail is the Sendero Los Quetzales (Los Quetzales Trail), which connects Boquete with Cerro Punta and wraps around the side of the volcano. The trail takes around 6 hours to hike. There is another trail to the top of the volcano, but this is long, steep, and strenuous.

On our visit, we could see the Pacific coast clearly while clouds shrouded the Caribbean side of the volcano. The summit is the only destination in Panama where there has ever been snow. It was about 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit) when we reached the top. There was no snow, but the 25-mph wind was unforgiving. The volcano has seven craters, which are all visible from the top. The Volcan Baru National Park allows only fifteen vehicles to make the ascent to the summit daily, and there were two others there on Thursday morning. The road to the top is roughly thirteen km of extreme rocks and ruts. Our driver, Melissa, was very skilled and delivered us safely to the top and back. The park only allows qualified, experienced drivers to make the journey. We followed another driver from her company in both directions. The two groups included our group of six, another guy who paid for a private tour, two drivers, and a guide. There was one stop along the way to clear rocks from the road for passage. I understand that hikers can no longer hike up in the dark of night. Camping at the summit is also no longer allowed. I believe the other tour company delivered some individuals to the top who would make the hike down. In any case, it is a challenging hike for even the most experienced hikers.

While at the top, our tour operator made us breakfast while we stood in awe of the magnificent sunrise views and the surrounding vistas. The trek was about two hours in each direction. Each time a vehicle makes the trip to the top, it is taken immediately for a complete inspection. She says replacing the tires, shocks, and brakes is commonly a short cycle. The ride down was a bit more daunting than the ride to the top. One of our fellow travelers arrived at the bottom with bruised ribs from the descent.

I cultivated some of the history and geography from Wikipedia, while some came from our guide.

Our dinner plans on Thursday night took us to RetroGusto. This was one of the best meals of the week, in my opinion. I rarely share pictures of food, but the image below is of my entree. I enjoyed the smoked pork chop. I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting Boquete. The restaurants in Boquete are a treat, and we all wished we could experience more of them. We have been to RetroGusto on one other trip to Boquete, and the experience both times was delightful.

The smoked Pork Chop
The smoked Pork Chop

On a previous trip there, we enjoyed Mesa Azul, which we recommend. We enjoyed a great meal at George’s Grill on our first trip. I related a great story in the first edition of 2 Retire In Panama? from George’s, but some readers had terrible experiences there, so I will refrain from recommending it.

Friday morning, we enjoyed a delightful breakfast at the Boquete Garden Inn before checking out and heading home. This hotel has been renovated and remains a favorite place in Boquete. We always find great new friends while visiting. On our drive back to Coronado, we found Dona Gladys. This was a stop Jen and I made on our first trip to Boquete, and I stated in the first edition of 2 Retire in Panama? that I didn’t think we would ever find it again.

I always recommend spending several months on the ground here in Panama before deciding where to retire. The consensus of our group was that Boquete is a beautiful place to visit for many reasons, but a little damp and cool. We’re pretty happy living in the beach community of Coronado. Go and explore the country and draw your own conclusion.

Our next great adventure is less than two weeks away. We are traveling to the Mayan Riviera of Mexico, near Cancun. We plan to visit Tulum and enjoy other sites near our resort. Watch for posts on social media in the weekly newsletter, and be sure to return to read our next blog post. If you’ve yet to subscribe to this blog or the newsletter, please do it. I have kept the content free and have never spammed my readers. We love you all and love sharing our adventures.

Blessings from paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

Our San Blas Adventure

In an article dated January 20, 2022, Joey Bonura lists the 14 Incredible Islands you must visit in Panama. As I scrolled through the article and checked out what he had to say about each, I realized that I could nearly own this list. I have referenced Joey’s blog below. He is a professional blogger sharing great information from his adventures throughout Latin America. Jen and I have had a hard time adventuring in Panama during Covid, but we are resuming our special adventure routine within the country and beyond.

Early last month we checked off one such adventure with a visit to San Blas. San Blas was high on my bucket list, and we scheduled our visit through Elias Perez with Kuna Yala Expeditions. I have referenced Kuna Yala Expeditions below for anyone interested in an adventure there. Our visit was a full emersion experience, staying on the island of Corbiski, where Elias is the administrator and a teacher at a school that educates over 140 Guna children. Almost half his students come from several of the surrounding islands arriving daily by boat.

One of the most outstanding destinations within the national territory of Panama is located in the northern Caribbean coast and is composed of about 365 islands, certainly one island for each day of the year, all of coral origin along 200 miles of coastline in the Caribbean Sea. The chain of islands is called the San Blas Archipelago, and officially known as the Kuna Yala Region. the map below gives a little perspective.

It’s likely that most tourists have heard about this archipelago, and many have seen documentaries on television about this paradise in Panama as the necklace of coral islands has become one of the most popular eco-tourism destinations within the Central American and Caribbean region. Kuna Yala is an autonomous region within the Panamanian territory, and its history dates back more than 500 years before the arrival of the Spaniards to the new continent. Its population comprises approximately 61,707 Kunas (according to the 2000 Census), who reside on the islands and mainland (located in the vicinity of Lake Bayano in northeastern Panama), distributed in about 48 villages in the region.

The Kunas, as the members of the region are called, are considered one of the few indigenous tribes of the American continent that keeps their culture almost intact despite the global changes that affect the world around them. We decided to learn a little more about the Kuna Yala region, the Kunas, their culture, and tourist attractions.

Jen and I had an amazing adventure in San Blas. We traveled to Panama City on Monday afternoon and settled into a room at the Riande. We like to stay there because they allow us to leave our car while we’re adventuring for $5.00 per day. We had a little time for shopping and dinner in the city before grabbing a nightcap and turning in early.

A nightcap before turning in early

Our driver picked us up at 5:40 a.m. for our journey to the port. San Blas can be accessed from Panama City by air daily with 25-minute flights depending on your destination within this set of islands. We opted for the more adventurous journey.  We were transported by four-wheel drive vehicle from the Riande hotel in Panama City, taking the Pan-American Highway toward the Bayano region. It was nearly an hour into the trip that the driver turned off the Pan-American highway near El Llano de Chepo to go directly to the coastal community of Cartí. This option is not for the faint of heart and only accessible during certain months. The road is extremely rough, winding through the mountainous jungle.  A person would have to be insane to take their personal vehicle on this road. It was about an hour before we arrived at the passport checkpoint. Technically, when you enter the Kuna-Yala territory you are entering a sovereign nation.

The passport checkpoint (No photographs allowed)

After passing the checkpoint it was another hour through the winding, rutted jungle road before we reached the port of Cartí.

A good stretch of the road

Once we reached the dock, we were met by our boat captain and guide. They would be taking care of us for our entire visit.

The dock at the Cartí Port

I was able to get some of the information above from Panama 24.org. I referenced their site below if you’re interested in reading more about the Kuna-Yala.

Our first island stop was one of the most famous islands in San Blas, Dog Island.  This is often considered one of the cleanest waters of the world and one of the best places in San Blas to snorkel. There is an old army gunboat sunk near the shore that is easily reached for the snorkeling enthusiast. We were thrilled by the warm, crystal clear, blue Caribbean water. We found changing rooms and hit the beach, enjoying the peaceful serenity of this beautiful location. We spent the remainder of the morning soaking in the sun and swimming.

Dog Island Photo by Mónica J. Mora

There was a small kitchen on the island manned by Kuna women who served us delightful whole fried Corvina, coconut rice and patacones. After a nice lunch, we had more time to enjoy the beach and swim before our boat captain rounded us up. He and the other guide took us to a cool natural swimming place in the middle of the ocean where the water was probably less than 18″ deep. He dropped anchor and invited us to enjoy this amazing place. We jumped from the boat and began exploring the edges which dropped off instantly into the deep, warm Caribbean.  One of the guides walked the entire perimeter, returning with a big armful of conch shells. We got some really neat pictures thanks to one of the other adventurers. The boat had snorkel gear on board, but we didn’t use it (I was concerned with using community snorkel gear because of Covid).

Standing in the middle of the ocean

On our journey, the boat guides toured us around past several islands, giving us a sense of this magnificent place.  The island of Corbiski is where our accommodations were located. The island is the home of many natives. As the boat approached the dock, we could see that the homes of the people went up to the edge of the water covering every bit of available land. There is no infrastructure of roads and utilities. The concerns for environmental changes are apparent, but there is no place to dispose of waste. The first thing I noticed is an abundance of garbage. I was told that all garbage had to be transported back to the mainland where there was a cost for disposal.

The island of Corbiski
These little islands were everywhere
Enjoying the boat journey

Most of the native people live on a few of the larger islands with the smaller islands receiving tourists for beach adventures or camping. Some of the smaller islands turn into party spots after dark. We were thankful for the quiet of our cabana, which had its own private bathroom and a nice little covered porch. It was rustic, but peaceful, positioned on a pier over the ocean. The island didn’t have a beach near our cabana. The breeze was perfect the entire time and we had no concerns with insects. We took along bug spray but never took the can out of our bag. Our bathroom plumbing flowed directly into the ocean and the shower was a mere cold trickle. There were no towels, soap, or toiletries provided. We were thankful we had the foresight to bring our own. There were no outlets. The lights were from a solar cell, and we had USB ports to charge our phones. We had cell service, but no wi-fi.  There was time for a nap before dinner. We met our host, Elias, for the first time late in the afternoon. He came around to make sure we were comfortable and brought a beautiful hand-crafted mola which his wife had made for us. She had fashioned it after the cover from my book. I got a picture of Jen and Elias proudly displaying the book and the mola.

Elias and Jen display the mola and book
Another view of our cabana
A view of our cabana from outside
The cabanas at Corbiski as we approach from the water

Dinner was served around 7:00 p.m. The cook prepared us each a beautiful lobster.

Lobster served with yucca and cabbage slaw

During dinner, we had a perfect opportunity to get acquainted with our fellow adventurers. The other three people, whom we had spent the day, were in the cabana next to ours. They were on an adventure from Lima, Peru. One of them was celebrating her birthday, too. She and I shared a birthday and the five of us had a great time getting to know one another over a great meal. All three of them spoke near perfect English, although they were slightly self-conscience of their ability. They became comfortable chatting with us. They were only there for one night.

Our new friends from Peru and Elias

When we woke the next morning, we went to the dining area and found coffee and breakfast waiting for us. The girls joined us for breakfast, then we boarded the boat for more island adventures. The five of us were treated to two more islands, each better than the previous. We had lunch on a tiny island that actually had chairs on the beach. Jen and I didn’t realize how nice it is to have a chair until there weren’t any.

Our second day lunch was chicken with patacones and salad
Jen enjoys a chair on the beach
Another of the beautiful beaches we visited

To most people, throwing a towel down on the sand is fine. To us, being a little further from the sand is good. That last beach was the hardest to leave, even though we were wrinkled from swimming and over-exposed to the sun. By mid-afternoon, it was time to take our new friends from Peru to meet their boat back to the dock. When we parted, they made sure we had their contact information. They invited us to Peru to explore their beautiful country.

Our new friends from Peru sharing lunch with us before their departure

After we dropped the girls at their transfer point, we had the option to visit another island, which we declined. That quiet little porch of our cabana was calling us home. Our guides took us to the dock, and we went to rest from our adventure. The place was buzzing with a mission group of teens from Connecticut. They were bunking in the other cabanas. The group is led by Mike Evans who operates a 501(c)3 to bring basketball to underprivileged areas worldwide. His mission is called Full Court Peace. I have linked his website below if this is something you want to read more about. I was deeply touched by what they were there to do. Before dark, they had set up a volleyball net on the site of the future basketball court and had the kids in the village involved in a game.

A little time for volleyball before dark
After we left the group assembled the basketball goals and had a basketball clinic for the locals

Elias gave us a tour of his school; however, the students were gone for the day. He also showed us his water project. The village operates entirely on water captured from rain and stored in a huge bladder. No wonder the shower is only a trickle. We enjoyed dinner with Mike and the boys before retiring to our cabana.

The water storage for the village

On Thursday morning we had a nice breakfast with our new friends from Connecticut before departing for home. I am continuing to get pictures of their project and other pictures from Elias and the school. In one respect, the time there was much too short, and, in another, it wasn’t. I would love to have stayed behind to help build the basketball court and see the school in action, but, truthfully, Jen and I were exhausted and had gotten too much of the beautiful sun.

Another view of Corbiski as we depart

We aren’t accustomed to primitive accommodations and were ready for our own bed and shower. The other cause of extreme exhaustion is emotional. I was emotionally drained from the extreme poverty and living conditions of these beautiful people. There is so much they need and so many ways to help that my mind was running on overload.

Volleyball spectators
Some children from the village
Children gathering outside the school

I needed time to get my mind wrapped around how to write this. I would like to suggest ways to help with Elias’s school and water project. I would like to recommend that if this is something that interests you, contact Elias and book a tour. Day trips are available as are multiple day adventures. I would suggest, based on our experience, that one day is enough. If you are a compassionate giver, take school supplies, give generous tips to the people providing service, and offer a contribution to Elias to help with their water project and school. They will offer beautiful hand-made molas which are great souvenirs of your time there. We bought three which we’re having made into throw pillows.

The molas we purchased will make beautiful throw pillows for the sofa

I’ve seen people frame them, fashion them into handbags, or make beach bags from them. The Kuna women use this technique to make their colorful dresses. Jen and I have been supporters of the school there. When Elias presented us with the beautiful mola, which his wife made, we knew this very special gift would be framed.

Our framed Mola

The experience gave me a renewed respect for conservation. The people in these native communities get by with such a small fraction of the resources which we are accustomed to having. I felt bad having an unneeded light on, not finishing my plate, or taking an unnecessary shower. Thoughts of having to do without soap, shampoo, or deodorant horrifies me.

The cost of our adventure was all-inclusive. It covered accommodations and all of our meals. We bought some extra beverages on the islands where we visited, purchased those beautiful molas, and tipped our guides. There were otherwise no hidden costs. It would be wise, if you visit, to carry along a gallon of drinking water. Elias provided us with a bottle when we arrived. The others visiting brought along their own.

References from our visit to San Blas:

Joey Bonura Blog

More about the Kuna-Yala

Elias Perez Kuna-Yala Expeditions

Mike Evans Full Court Peace

Internet Photo

Two weeks following our adventure in San Blas, we took a whale watching excursion with our friends, Mike and Diane. The whale watching season runs from June to November. There are multiple excursions available. We opted for a catamaran hosted by Sea Las Perlas.

In the Panamanian Pacific waters, it’s possible to observe numerous families of humpback whales, who cross the warm waters of Panama’s coasts during their annual migratory journey from Antarctica. During their migration, the entire Panamanian coastline and especially the famous archipelago of Las Perlas (The Pearl Islands), have become the tourist destinations most frequented by travelers who want to witness this extraordinary spectacle of nature.

Our adventure started the day before with our drive to the Amador Causeway, where we checked into the Beachhouse Hotel. It’s a boutique bed and breakfast situated only five minutes from the Isla Flamenco Port where our excursion would begin. This was important as we were required to check in at 6:45 a.m. for the 7:30 a.m. departure.

Check-in
Our comfortable room
The Beachhouse Hotel
Our walk down the causeway

We settled into our rooms and wandered the causeway for a while before taking an Uber to dinner in Panama City. We enjoyed a delightful meal at Casa Alejandro, which is right off Avenida Balboa in downtown.

I woke early to capture some great pictures of the sunrise over Panama City from our balcony.

Sunrise over Panama City

After enjoying the beautiful sunrise, we checked out of our hotel rooms, packed the car, and drove to the dock. Check-in for our excursion was easy and we joined about 35 others on the boat. It was comfortable and there was a guide who was bi-lingual. He gave us a great description of what we could expect. We chose seats inside, which was air conditioned. There was also seating outside at the rear of the boat. Restroom facilities were available aboard the craft.

There has been extreme interest in the magnificent new cruise port being built on the east side of the Amador Causeway at the south end of the Panama Canal. Norwegian Cruise Line is already sailing from the new port, with many other cruise companies preparing to welcome people aboard from this strategic new location. This will position Panama to be one of the premier locations to catch or disembark a cruise. This is a huge feather in the cap of the Minister of Tourism, who had the vision to support this project. I captured the picture below as we left port.

The new cruise facility

There’s never a guarantee that you’ll see whales, but our experienced captain and guide didn’t fail us. About halfway into our journey to Isla Bolaños we happened upon a school of dolphins who gave us quite a show. They surrounded the boat as if we were there to entertain them. Little did they know that we were the ones being entertained.

Dolphins
Dolphins

As we continued on, we began seeing whale after whale. I suspect that we saw well over a dozen before reaching the island. The mama whales were very protective of their young and getting great pictures was nearly impossible. This is a unique experience in life that can’t be missed. The captain was always preserving safety and keeping a respectful attitude towards nature. Despite all of that, we were at times much closer to the largest mammals in the world than it appears in my photos.

I never mentioned earlier that the weather was near perfect when we left Panama City. It, however, began to change as we neared the Pearl Islands. It’s rainy season here and we’ve grown to expect anything. We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at the Sonny Island Resort around 11:00 a.m. It was there where we enjoyed lunch while it rained. The rain continued, making it difficult to enjoy the beaches of the beautiful little island resort. It did subside periodically, and we explored long enough to get some great pictures. This resort is off the grid and a favorite of people who want to disconnect for a day or more. There were cabanas and tents available for overnight guests. Power was supplied by a huge field of solar panels positioned in the middle of the compound. Restrooms and showers were available. This island happens to be the first on Joey Bonura’s 14 islands you must see while visiting Panama.

Isla Bolaños
We made landfall on Isla Bolaños at Sonny Island Resort
The tent experience
Sonny Island Resort Bahia
The Beach Bar at Sonny Island Resort
Magnificent beach
Our boat is parked way out there. We’re going to get wet on the panga back.

With rain coming down in sheets, we got soaked on the small boat which returned us to the catamaran. We didn’t hold out much hope for seeing more whales on the return trip but were pleasantly surprised.  We not only saw more whales, but we also had sufficient time to dry out before arriving back at the dock around 5:00 p.m.

Sea Las Perlas

Sonny Island Resort

In August, we explored two of the 14 islands Joey Bonura says you must see in Panama. In the opening paragraph, I alluded to the fact that I could almost own his list. It looks like we’re halfway through it. In addition to San Blas and Isla Bolaños, which I covered here, Jen and I have explored several of the others Joey talked about. I blogged about them in previous posts. If you’re interested in our experience and haven’t read the previous posts, I have linked them below.

Bocas Del Toro

Boca Chica

Isla Mamey / Isla Grande

Contadora

My blog posts are coming along more infrequently than in the past. I blame this in part to how busy we’ve become in retirement and, in part, to my weekly newsletter. I also blame it on the fact that I’ve been working on the manuscript for a mystery fiction book. The book is not yet named, although the rough draft is complete. Some days it’s difficult to put my butt in the chair and write. We’ll keep adventuring and share our experiences as long as there’s interest. Please sign up to receive the newsletter if you haven’t already. I publish it every Monday morning. Both the blog and the newsletter are free, and we never share your information. If you haven’t signed up to get the blog posts, the sign up is on the right margin. I seem to be blogging about 10 times per year.

Jen and I are going to Columbia in a few weeks. You can expect to see a fresh blog post when we return from there.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama