Is there violent crime in Panama?

Jen and I went to dinner with our good friends, Mike and Diane, to celebrate one last meal with them at one of our favorite places in the community. They were returning to the States after concluding the sale of their condo. They decided to downsize to only one home and simplify their life.

After settling into our seats, we enjoyed our meals and relaxed in great conversation about some of the adventures and things we have experienced as friends here. True friends are friends for life, and we’ll continue to embrace their friendship across the miles, looking forward to their visits back to Panama or our visits to see them in the U.S.

Mike and Diane at Cafe Med

Our celebration was an experience none of us will soon forget. As the evening evaporated in delightful food and conversation, we were lost in our time together. As near as I can recall, it was nearly nine thirty when Diane gasped, looking toward the entrance to the restaurant. “This can’t be good,” she said. I glanced over my shoulder to see two armed thugs enter dressed entirely in black, covered from head to foot. Only their eyes were visible through their disguises. The two began screaming and yelling in Spanish, creating a ruckus in the restaurant. I have to interject here that I cannot accurately recount how much time passed or what exactly was transpiring as my back was to most of it.

They took cell phones and things easily accessible and visible off tables while the guests sat in horror. At one table in my field of vision, a patron fought with one who was trying to take his wife’s purse. The guy was forced to the ground after being assaulted by the gunman. The owner was robbed. The entire event was scarcely moments before the owner began shouting back in Spanish, getting in the face of one of the perpetrators. At our table, my phone was all that was taken. I witnessed several other patrons hiding their wallets and purses.

As the two ran from the restaurant, another patron produced a weapon and chased them. He hollered at them in Spanish before firing shots as they climbed the fence across the street. The restaurant is an open garden with a clear street view through the plants and greenery. I saw the patron firing at them, but I cannot say with certainty if he fired all four shots or if some were return fire. Based on my perception of the sound of the shots, all four were fired from the same weapon.

I suspect someone had dialed the police relatively soon in the ordeal because they arrived quickly. They began tracking the perpetrators, climbing the fence, and finding blood before recovering the items taken. One police officer was injured climbing the fence where the perps disappeared. The responding officers worked to recover the stolen property while others took statements from patrons. They disarmed the shooter and treated him respectfully as he helped translate between the English-speaking patrons and the Spanish-speaking law enforcement.

The following day, we went to the Department of Judicial Investigation (DJI) to claim my stolen cell phone. It was then that I realized how much of the harrowing event I could not recall. I credit God with our veil of protection, which kept us safe. It may have been that veil of protection that affected my recount or something else, but adrenalin surged through my body while I paid the bill and gave my statement to the police officers at the scene. I blamed that adrenaline rush on my fatigue as the week progressed.

DJI was friendly and welcoming. They provided an interpreter for me as I was asked to give my statement in my native language (a right of all victims in Panama). I signed a document warning of providing false testimony, another informing me of my rights as a victim, and a form releasing and returning my property, which had been taken. I was asked to provide a fingerprint at each place I signed. They informed me of the apprehension of one of the perps and that the other was known and being pursued. This information gave me more comfort than the return of my cell phone.

DJI is the bridge between the initial police response and the investigation for prosecution of a crime. They are an arm of the Fiscalia (Attorney General’s Office). If DJI responds to the scene of a crime, they will conduct an initial investigation. However, they cannot conduct a full or follow-up investigation unless you go to the local Denuncia Center and file an official report. Filing a Denuncia is the ONLY way to open a case and get a tracking number. Once you have filed a Denuncia and obtained a Denuncia number, you can use that number to follow up on the status of your case.

The police response in Panama is different than in the United States.  The police will respond to provide immediate assistance and protection to victims, will arrest suspects if they are still on the scene or nearby (assuming they have probable cause that the suspect indeed committed a crime), and, if necessary, call for DJI investigators (see more about DJI above).  The Police will NOT take a report or conduct a follow-up investigation.  They may take some data for statistical purposes but are not empowered to file reports or conduct investigations.  If your call to the police is not timely (i.e., when the crime is discovered), there is little the police can do.  If you delay reporting the crime, or if it is minor, you should go straight to DJI.

Investigating a case takes 2 to 4 months, and prosecution can take years.

In addition to reporting crime to Panamanian authorities, U.S. citizens are encouraged to provide information on criminal incidents to the U.S. Embassy. This information will assist the embassy in tracking crimes against U.S. citizens in Panama and following up with authorities.

When reporting a crime to the American Citizen Services unit of the Consular Section, please provide the following information by email to panama-acs@state.gov or by visiting their website and clicking on the crime report link, which you should find on the website. The following information will requested:

·         U.S. Passport Number of victim

·         DJI Report Number and Date Filed

·         Type of Crime Committed

·         In-depth narrative of the crime you were the victim of, including the following information:

a.       Crime location (province, city/area, neighborhood, etc.)

b.      Number of US Citizens affected.

c.       Date and approximate time of day the crime took place.

d.      The monetary amount of valuables/objects taken/destroyed (if applicable)

e.       Action taken after the crime was committed (police report, etc.)

I wanted to share the victim rights offered in Panama. I spent a great deal of time looking for a good translation of the rights provided by the law here. Jen located this website, and I’m sharing a document from it.

The rights of crime victims in Panama

Victims’ rights are special guarantees granted to those who have suffered harm due to crime and serious human rights violations.

Human rights are rights inherent to all human beings, without distinction of nationality, place of residence, sex, national or ethnic origin, color, religion, language, or any other condition; we all have the same human rights without discrimination.

According to Panamanian criminal legislation, victims have the following rights:

  • The right to receive medical, psychiatric or psychological, spiritual, material, and social care when required in the cases provided by law.
  • The right to intervene as a complainant to demand the defendant’s criminal responsibility and to obtain civil compensation for the damages resulting from the crime.
  • The right to receive protection when the judge and the competent court must decide or fix the amount of a release bond or grant a personal precautionary measure instead of preventive detention in favor of the defendant.
  • The right to be informed about the course of the respective criminal proceedings and to receive explanations related to the development of the process.
  • The right to be heard by the judge when they are present at the request for dismissal of charges presented by the Public Ministry or prosecutor’s office.
  • The right to promptly receive the assets of their property or of their lawful possession seized as evidence during the criminal proceeding when they are not necessary for the process.
  • The right to receive free legal assistance from the state through a Panamanian lawyer to obtain reparation for the damage resulting from the crime and to cooperate with the prosecutor’s office to exercise the criminal action.
  • Any other right that the laws indicate.

On the other hand, defendants have the following rights:

  • The right to presumption of innocence
  • The right to know the reasons for their detention.
  • The right to communicate with a family member and their defense lawyer in Panama.
  • The right not to be subjected to arbitrary detention or investigative techniques that violate their dignity or alter their free will.
  • The right to an attorney
  • The right to a certified translator or interpreter if they do not understand the Spanish language.
  • The right not to testify against themselves.
  • The right to appeal.
  • The right to be brought before a court or judge promptly.
  • The right not to be discriminated against
  • The right to be treated well and to be fed.
  • The right to health in Panama
  • The right to receive periodic information about their legal situation from their private attorney, public defender, or the Panamanian Penitentiary System.

If you need to speak with a criminal defense attorney or a legal translator in the Republic of Panama, please message them at the link above.

It amazes us how many friends and relatives from near and far offered a shoulder or kind ear to listen. A special thanks go to Mitzy Casey, who held our hands, guiding us through the process at DJI, and my translator Emerson, who talked me through the forms. Thank you to the kind police officers and the Assistant Prosecutor. Thank you also goes to the other victims who remained calm in the dire situation, and Jasmine, a voice on the phone with Jen, who ensured us that her husband, Issac (a local police Lieutenant), was in the loop. Issac is an advocate for ex-pats in our community.

We recently returned to Cafe Med with friends. The decision to return to the restaurant so soon after the tragic event was healing for Jen and me, while the others agreed to support us and refuse to allow terror to victimize our ability to enjoy the home we love.  Crime like the one we experienced could have occurred anywhere.

Jon and Sue Wizarde at Cafe Med

Our return was six days following the robbery, and we found the proprietor, Franco, attempting a return to flawless service and excellent food. The place was packed to capacity by ex-pats and Panamanians in an outpouring of support and our same refusal to be terrorized.

I found this helpful information for tourists in Panama. Safety and crime information. I have copied and pasted it here to give visitors and residents a perspective on what they may expect as they travel around Panama.

Panama remains relatively safe compared to other Central American countries, yet crime rates are still higher than in most of the United States. Violent crime in Panama started to rise in 2007. However, new efforts by Panama’s National Police (PNP) to combat this trend appear to have made an impact. Beginning in June 2010, the number of homicides in the country declined and continued downward through 2012. Unfortunately, the rate of simple theft was up, with “Blackberry”-type smartphones being a particular target. The three provinces with the largest cities also had the highest overall crime rates: Panama, Colon, and Chiriqui. The entire town of Colon is a high-crime area; travelers should use extreme caution anywhere in Colon.

Police continue to conduct vehicle checkpoints at key intersections in the city to raise their visibility and hamper criminals’ movements. The high crime areas in and around Panama City are El Chorrillo, San Miguel, Santa Ana, Cabo Verde, Curundu, Veracruz Beach, Santa Librada, Rio Abajo, San Miguelito, Panama Viejo, and the Madden Dam Overlook.

Crimes are typical of those that plague metropolitan areas and include shootings, rapes, armed robberies, muggings, purse-snatchings, thefts from locked autos by breaking windows for entry, thefts of unsecured items, petty theft, and occasionally “express kidnappings” from ATM banking facilities, in which the victim is briefly kidnapped and robbed after withdrawing cash from an ATM. There has also been a recent spike in credit card and ATM fraud reports. Criminals capture credit and ATM card information to clone and create fraudulent cards. Kidnappings have been on the rise of late, including in Panama City. Many of the kidnappings appear related to drug or criminal activity.

There has also been a recent increase in thefts from cars. We encourage travelers and residents to take all valuables out of their vehicles and place them in their trunks before they get to their destinations. Drivers should keep their windows up while the car is in motion or stopped in traffic, at traffic lights, or at their destinations to prevent items from being stolen while driving.

Taxis are a helpful way to maneuver around Panama; however, use caution when getting into a taxi. Check that the number on the side of the taxi matches the number on the license plate. Ensuring the car is a registered taxi with a number on the side is a quick way to help prevent any incidences. Regular taxis are yellow. Also, never get into a taxi that already has a passenger and instruct the driver not to pick up any additional fares while en route to your destination. Many hotels also have “tourist taxis” that are not yellow but only pick up passengers in front of well-known hotels.

U.S. citizens are advised never to let a “helpful” stranger direct them to a particular taxi or taxi stand and always negotiate the fare before getting in to ensure a fixed price.

Regarding non-drug-related crime, using weapons (handguns and knives) in the commission of street robberies is common; however, gratuitous violence is uncommon as long as the victim complies and hands over the property. In 2013, there was an increase in violence during theft. Home burglaries and, more worrying, home-invasion robberies do appear to be on the rise, especially in the more affluent neighborhoods. Panama City has a curfew for those younger than 18 years of age that is generally from 8:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Friday and Saturday. The times are subject to change depending on your location within Panama. If you are concerned about the exact time, you may contact local police. This curfew applies to both Panamanian and foreign citizens. Under the law, students attending night classes must have a “carnet” or permit issued by the school or, if employed, a Certificate of Employment. Minors picked up for a curfew violation are subject to detention at a police station until parents or legal guardians can arrange for them to be released into their custody. Parents or legal guardians may be fined up to U.S. $50 for the first violation.

Panamanian customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Panama of items such as firearms and ammunition, cultural property, endangered wildlife species, narcotics, biological material, and food products. Contact the Embassy of Panama in Washington or one of Panama’s Consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Don’t buy counterfeit and pirated goods, even if they are widely available. Not only are the bootlegs illegal in the United States, but you may also be breaking local law if you purchase them.

You are responsible for ensuring that you meet and comply with foreign entry and health requirements and possess the appropriate travel documents. Information provided is subject to change without notice. One should confirm content before traveling from other reliable sources. Information published on this website may contain errors. You travel at your own risk, and we provide no warranties or guarantees.

Visitors and residents in Panama can expect crime to be similar to any other location worldwide. My best advice is to be aware of your surroundings and protect your belongings. I have always professed to be cautious when entering a taxi, engaging in a transaction, or entering an area of higher criminal activity.

Recently, we took a tour of the El Chorrillo barrio community, where gang activity dates back to the Noriega regime. Our tour was led by a capable guide, Victor Peretz, who helped us understand the neighborhood’s people and activities. Without his guidance, we would never attempt to enter this area. While there, we witnessed the police presence, children playing in the streets, a park with people playing dominoes, and a community center that was a safe haven for children to gather. We also had the opportunity to visit a neighborhood bar and a kitchen where local food is prepared, and cooking classes are hosted. Victor pointed out the gang houses and the graffiti art. This is the neighborhood where Roberto Duran and many famous jazz and blues entertainers were born and raised. The community is the home of seven current soccer players from the Panama Soccer team.

Neighborhood History in Street Art
Gang House
Roberto Duran (street art)

This neighborhood borders the famous Casco Viejo area where the Presidential Palace is located. The Casco Viejo gentrification is pushing the borders, and we found it heartbreaking that many people in this depressed community were being driven from the homes where their families have lived for generations.

Street Food Vendor
Dominoes in the park
A neighborhood bar. The beers were $1.

The story’s moral is that we would never have experienced this area without the guidance of Victor. No visitor should go to this neighborhood alone, expecting to be safe. Likewise, no visitor should attempt to visit Colon without a capable guide. Review the list of areas in the article above before setting out on adventures.

Jen and I at Fort Lorenzo Castle near Colon

Jen and I, with numerous adventure buddies, have been to many of these areas. I have detailed these adventures in previous blog posts, my newsletter, my Facebook feed, and my book, 2 Retire In Panama. That doesn’t mean we advocate putting ourselves in danger. Use due diligence and protect your belongings. Keep your wallet and cell phone in your front pocket, and don’t wear expensive jewelry. Most of Panama is safe. Enjoy the beauty of this country, and feel free to explore.

Adventures With the Family December 2022

Jen’s family made a visit to Panama for an early Christmas celebration, and we were able to take them on a few adventures. The group included her two brothers, one sister-in-law, and two nephews. We were sad that nephew, Connor, and his wife, Olivia, were unable to be with us.

Jen’s older brother, Bill, and his wife, Deb, arrived two days prior to the others. They came through immigration and customs in under half an hour and we were on our way to Coronado in record time. Our guests always enjoy Gold Coast Brewery, so we made a dinner stop for half price wings before getting them settled into their condo accommodations just four floors down from ours in El Alcazar. Our amazing friend, Joan, offered her place for the family while she traveled, and it proved to be perfect with everyone getting their own bed and bathroom. While the family was here, we were able to have meals together and play some family card games in Joan’s condo, which offered a much bigger space than our own.

Thursday gave us some time with Bill and Deb, which was perfect for a trip to the Coronado Thursday Market and some last-minute shopping to prepare for the rest of the family’s arrival. We also took the opportunity to enjoy the pool and a nice dinner at Nazca 21. Bill ordered the whole corvina and was surprised when the small fish hung over the plate on both ends.

Friday morning, I prepared to make the journey to the airport to pick up the remaining guests. While the morning progressed, we watched their flights. Jon was traveling from Minneapolis, while Donovan and Cullan traveled from Detroit. They were to all connect to the same flight in Atlanta. Jon’s flight was delayed as it took over an hour to “de-ice” his plane, and he missed the connection. Ultimately, he got a stand-by flight which put him more than five hours behind the nephews. Bill went along with me to the airport to pick up Cullan and Donovan.

Cullan and Donovan arrive in Panama

The trip to the airport was without incident, but the return was a traffic jam typical of Friday afternoons in Panama. I always say to prepare for travel from Panama City to take anywhere from two to four hours and our trip home was on the long side. Both boys were exhausted by the time we got them settled. We had a nice dinner and off to bed they went while we waited to see what would happen with Jon. We learned he was able to make it onto the later flight, so I contacted Marc Vargas who arranged for his transportation to Coronado. It was nearly 1:00 a.m. before he got here. It was a long day for all of us, suffice it to say it was really long for Jon.

We kept our schedule loose for Saturday, but everyone was awake in plenty of time to take our first real adventure to El Valle. It’s always a favorite of guests, and we could have spent much more than a day there. Our first stop was El Macho Falls. Everyone except Jen and I zip-lined the falls.

Following our zip-line and hike around the falls we went to Zapote’ for lunch. From Zapote’, we took them to the rim of the volcano for a hike to the ridge.

Our last stop was at the market. The market in El Valle is always a special favorite of guests. Everyone found a few treasures to take back to the states. Jon and Deb bought Panama hats while the others found some last-minute Christmas gifts and we all grabbed a little fresh fruit and produce.

Our dinner plans on Saturday took us to Segundo Piso. The fine dining restaurant at our club never disappoints and our dinner was no exception. Everyone had a great meal, and we went home early to prepare for our early (6:45 a.m.) Sunday departure to the Embera Village.

Sunday morning, we caravanned to Panama City with four friends. There we met our tour guide, Marc Vargas. Marc was able to bring his wife Keren, daughter Mabel, and mother-in-law, Esther. They had never been on a tour of an Embera Village, and we had room in our group. It was great having them along. Marc’s family is special to us, and we often consider them part of our own family. At the rendezvous point, we loaded onto a coaster bus for the remainder of the journey to the river where we boarded a piragua. Embera piraguas are carved from the trunk of a large tree. They take about six months to carve, and each one can take twenty passengers and a small load of cargo. We brought fruit, rice, and beans for the villagers. We also brought candy and toys for the children. Our piragua had a motor on it, but that was about all the modern conveniences one can expect to find on an Embera adventure.

We made a brief stop at the village to drop off the cargo before heading to a waterfall hike about twenty minutes further up the river. The lighter load allowed us to travel to within a short walk to the falls. The place was beautiful and secluded inside the national park. This village of Embera people are living within the Chagres National Park where they are trusted with the care and conservation of the land. They are allowed to only hunt and fish for their own personal survival.

Following our visit to the falls, we were transported back to the village where we were met by the tribe. Several men from the village welcomed us with music from handmade instruments. The children met our piragua and took us to the village meeting place where we got an exhibition of native dance. The women in our group were presented with fresh flowers for their hair and Marc, along with the guide from another group, translated to tell us about the culture of the Embera people.

From there, we were taken to an area where food was prepared. Our group was given a light lunch of fish and patacones served in a banana leaf. While we ate, we were told about their crafts and the technique for dying and carving the pieces. Everything at the village is made from wood and plants found in the jungle. The dyes are from fruits and nuts growing near the village and the carved wood pieces are from wood growing in the jungle. The crafts are priced according to the amount of time which goes into their creation.

We were then free to explore the village and shop the crafts in the large meeting place. Each family had a table of their work, which was all magnificent. Jen and I were able to purchase three pieces which we will treasure for a lifetime. Jon and I both got Embera art in the form of a temporary tattoo made from the dyes which they use to decorate their own bodies. The “tattoo” lasted over ten days.

When it came time to depart, we were sad to leave. The people were so kind and welcoming, following us to our piragua to bid us farewell. We were able to get some great pictures and share some special moments with people who didn’t speak a word of English but communicated beautifully by sharing their jungle home.

Our coaster bus met us at the place where we had begun the adventure and transported us back to our rendezvous point. Jen and I took the family to Pedro Miguel Locks from there, in hope of seeing a boat passing through. We hung out at the viewing place for a while and were able to see several boats but really saw nothing of the locks. Late on a Sunday afternoon, we were unable to get into the gallery for tourists, and the Miraflores Locks were closed due to an incident earlier in the week. It was late when we started our journey back to Coronado. If we consider being stuck in stop and go traffic for several hours an adventure, we had our third adventure of the day. Sunday evening traffic between Coronado and the city can be brutal. We were thankful to the vendors selling water and churros to those stuck in traffic. Our final stop of the day was dinner at The Bench. It was the perfect place to unwind and talk about our amazing adventure.

Monday was dedicated to a day of beach and pool fun. It was also Jon’s birthday. He and I took a dune buggy tour of the community and went to the beach. The tide was high and the surf strong, but we managed to have a great time. Later, I took the boys in the buggy. The tide had receded, so we were able to get out in the sand for a little fun.

We were able to enjoy a birthday dinner together; ham, au gratin potatoes, tossed salad, and red velvet birthday cake. On the holidays, our family always enjoys playing Up the River Down the River. Monday night was capped off with a healthy card game competition.

Tuesday, we took them all to Santa Clara for a beach day and lobster lunch. The weather and food were amazing, and everyone had a great time. The beach was packed like I’ve never seen before. The anniversary of the U.S. invasion to take down Noriega (Operation Just Cause) was celebrated here as a day of mourning for the first time, and all the government offices were closed giving many the day off. This new holiday is dry, so no alcohol could be sold or served.

Our time together was coming to a rapid end. Their departure on Thursday morning meant we had only one day of adventure left. A poll of the visitors gave us a great idea. We gathered everyone for a short hike to Filipina Falls high on the mountain near Sora. The drive to the trailhead was long, but the road was good for most of the way. Once we reached the trailhead, we paid the landowner $2.00 each, and the dogs led the way to the falls. I brought a bag of dog biscuits, and the friendly dogs did a great job of showing us the way. Jen and I had purchased Panama T-shirts for our visitors, and we all took the opportunity to sport them on the hike. This made for some great photo opportunities.

Our farewell dinner was later in the evening at Cafe’ Med. Franco and team did a great job of making that last meal together special. It would have been great to have the family here through the holidays, but the entire time they were here was special. Their journeys home were mostly uneventful given the weather in the north. Jon landed in Minneapolis over two hours late to temperatures at negative 11 degrees F. The crew that went to Detroit landed an hour late to snowstorms, but all their cars started, and they were all able to get home safely.

Jon’s Jeep started despite the extreme temperature

As the end of 2022 rapidly approaches, we are missing our time with family. We continue to love our life in Panama. Since moving to this beautiful country, we have made some of the best friends of our lives. The relationships with these new friends keep us busy and adventuring, but the visits from old friends and family are special. We hope that all of you have a safe, healthy and blessed New Year. With adventures planned in 2023 taking us to more than 6 other countries, I look forward to filling my passport with stamps from places I never imagined. I hope we have encouraged all of you to step outside your comfort zone and take an adventure. If that adventure brings you to our neighborhood, please don’t hesitate to look us up. We love having visitors and meeting new people.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

A Full Month of Adventures

Jen and I started our month of adventures on January 23 when we went to Panama City to prepare for a short visit to Florida.  We are fully vaccinated and not required to test for covid when we travel TO Panama, but when we travel to the United States, even though we are citizens, a negative covid test is required.  I am going to climb on my soap box for one brief moment, and then I will continue the story. The United States hardly requires masks, and the infection rate is under control enough for the President to repeal mask mandates at the White House.  However, citizens traveling from a foreign country to the US must get a negative covid test to go home after a vacation or to visit friends and family there.  We got our negative covid test and, as resident Jubilado’s, paid $30 USD each with our discount.  Travelers without this benefit must pay $50 USD each, adding to the cost of travel.  I believe that this is governmental overreach.  Immigrants crossing the southern border are not tested and are allowed to board buses and flights all over the country, but as a tax-paying US Citizen, I must provide a negative test to go home.  It is time to stand up to the tyranny of the government on this matter. These useless requirements should be removed.

We got our negative test at the airport which is required to be taken the day before travel. This cleared us to travel to our 2nd home in Florida on a flight the next day.  Our winter guests in our condo were to arrive on February 1st, and we wanted to make sure everything was perfect for their arrival.

We got our negative test.

On Monday we boarded our flight to Florida.  While in Florida we visited Jen’s brother, Bill, and his wife, Deb.  They were snow-birding in Fort Myers, and it provided an excellent time to catch up with them.  They treated us to a great meal at one of their favorite restaurants.  In the morning, we all went over to a great outlet mall near their place, and I managed to buy a jacket and a couple of new shirts.  Note to self…even in Florida a jacket will be necessary during the winter months. We had a delightful visit at their vacation condo, before continuing on to our place in Port Charlotte.

Mom and Rich had been staying in our condo since the end of November.  It was a great time to be sure all the kinks were worked out.  There were a few small mechanical issues that they were able to take care of for us before we arrived.  One other issue required that we replace the washer and dryer before our guest’s arrival.  With the nationwide logistics crisis, this was easier said than done.  But we persevered and on Saturday, the new laundry pair was delivered.  This gave mom time to do their laundry before traveling to Panama.  We also had time to get all the sheets and towels washed before leaving, getting the condo in tip top shape for our winter visitors.

In addition to dealing with a few small problems, we were able to do some other visiting before turning our condo over on February 1st.

Lime Tequila in Port Charlotte is our favorite when we are there

The main reason we wanted to be in Florida at the end of January was to bring Mom and Rich back to Panama.  They had been reluctant to travel to Panama because of the language barrier, and they had rarely been outside of the United States.  On Tuesday February 1st the four of us boarded our flight in Miami for our non-stop flight to Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, Panama.

Loaded and awaiting departure

Our arrival in Panama was late evening, and I choose not to drive after dark when possible.  We had reservations at the Riande Hotel near the airport. This is where Jen and I had stayed prior to our departure for Florida, and they allowed us to park in their secure lot for about $5 USD per day.  This detail is for those of you who may be looking for similar options in your travel to and from Panama.  We stayed the night, had a nice breakfast, and found the car just as I left it.  We loaded up the next day, and began our journey to Coronado.

Our journey took us past Casa de Jamon and Price Smart.  We made brief stops at both.  Casa de Jamon is a great restaurant supply-type food store in Costa Del Este.  We picked up a few groceries there and went on to Price Smart for a few other things.  Then it was on to our home in Coronado.

We arrived in Coronado mid-afternoon, and our special guests were able to settle in and relax in preparation for their full month of adventure.  Our dinner plan took us to Gold Coast Brewery for half price wing night.  There they met a few of our friends, and we enjoyed the wings.

I do not know where to begin other than to take the whole month in chronological order.  That first partial week, we relaxed by the pool, took the buggy to the beach for some sand play, Rich got a haircut, and Mom and Jen got pedicures.  Thursday is our weekly domino game. Mom and Rich joined us each week during their visit.   Throughout Covid, Jen and I got together with the same small group of friends for this weekly event, and it has continued.  Everyone agrees that it was one of the things that helped us all maintain our sanity during the lockdowns and other measures imposed by MINSA to keep everyone safe from the virus.

Low tide. We explored a great stretch of beach
Pool time
Saturday morning at the club pool
Mom got a beach excursion too

My favorite barber gave Rich a trim.

The other constant during their visit was Sunday worship at Coronado Bible Church.  Each week we had brunch after church with many of our awesome friends.  Our special guests enjoyed the church, brunches, and meeting a few of our friends each week.  They were slowly beginning to understand why we love our life here in Panama.  Mom loved that I was an active participant in the praise team at church.

Our first adventure outside our little community was to El Valle de Anton.  We included good friends Diane and Mike for a full day of exploring up there.  El Valle has been a favorite of all of our visitors, with those who have had repeated visits always wanting to return.  There are so many places there that we had a difficult time choosing which to explore.  That day we took them to the Orchid Sanctuary, The Butterfly House, El Macho Falls, and the Sunday Market.  We were disappointed that our favorite restaurant was closed.  This gave us a chance to try another place that just did not meet our high standards.  The market gave me a chance to grab some fresh vegetables while everyone else shopped the vendors.  El Valle is a short 45-minute drive from Coronado straight up the mountain.  The entire village lies in the crater of a volcano.  The climate is a bit cooler than the beach communities, and many expats live there.  Check out my book or the archives of this blog to learn more about this magnificent place.

Ready for adventures

El Macho Falls. We couldn’t get them to zip-line it.

The bookstore, El Hombre de La Mancha, had requested more books which I was able to bring back from the States.  The second Thursday our guests were here we went back into the city to make the delivery.  This was a big highlight for me as, when we arrived, they asked me for an interview and photo session.  They are promoting my book on their social media, and it appears that it is selling well in their stores.  The delivery allowed them to stock it in every store nationwide.  We were surprised to find it among the Panama Travel and History books despite the fact that it is only offered in English.  People who have looked for it in the English section have been unable to find it in the stores.  The price for it here in their stores is higher, but the bookstore is a huge advocate for literacy in Panama.  That makes my day to feel like I am doing some small part for literacy here.

Mom found it in the main store in San Francisco

Karen Ceballos, Director of Marketing at El Hombre de La Mancha

After leaving the bookstore we were able to take Mom and Rich for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants in the city, Michael’s.  Mike Nikolich is the owner, and his place is a very successful for breakfast and lunch. He is a native of Michigan and has spent years in the restaurant business in Panama.  Following lunch, we went down to Panama Viejo.  This is the original ruins of the first Panama City.  It was the first port where goods entered the country and were transported over land to the Caribbean for shipment to the America’s, Europe, and Spain.  This gave our guests a perspective of what Panama was like before the canal was constructed.  This location was repeatedly attacked by pirates who were after the precious gold and silver from South America.  The city was later relocated to what is now called Casco Viejo (old town), where they could more easily protect it.

Mike Nikolich grabbed a copy of my book.
Mom and Rich in front of the tower at Panama Viejo

The following week we caught up with our good friend, and the master of tour guides, Marc Vargas, to take an adventure to the Caribbean side of the country.  Marc picked us up and took us for a look at the Agua Clara Lock on the Caribbean end of the canal.  Agua Clara is the new lock designed to accommodate the huge Pana Max ships.  This gave Rich a firsthand look at how the canal works.  Marc took us from there to the Gatun Locks just adjacent to the Agua Clara lock.  The visitor center there is closed, but we were able to see a cruise ship passing through over the hill.  He continued on down to the Gatun Dam where the Chagres River is dammed to provide water to Lake Gatun which is a huge part of the canal passage.  We went from there across the new Atlantic Bridge.  I call this the bridge to nowhere because, when it was completed, the road leading away from it on the west side of the canal was dirt.  It is now paved and leads to Fort Sherman, Shelter Bay and Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  We visited all three.  The road is now nicely paved right through the jungle to the ruins at San Lorenzo.  It is also paved all the way north to Shelter Bay.   Fort Sherman has been mostly deserted since the United States turned the canal over to the Panamanian people.  Shelter Bay remains a prosperous marina which is protected from hurricanes.  After lunch at the marina, we went through the jungle to Fort San Lorenzo Castle.  This was a wonderful experience.  The Fort is under full restoration to maintain its UNESCO World Heritage designation.  I cannot wait to visit again after the restoration is completed.  Despite the construction going on, this is a beautiful tour.  The Fort sits at the mouth of the Chagres River high on a bluff where it was easily protected from the pirates.  Thank you, Marc, for showing us a great time.

Marc gives us a little detail on the new Agua Clara Lock
The Gatun Dam
A cruise ship passing through the Gatun Locks
How about lunch at Shelter Bay?

This Coate’ came to see where we were going
There was a major restoration in progress at San Lorenzo Castle

Fort San Lorenzo Castle sits at the mouth of the Chagres River
Marc checks out the heavy artillery
Fort Sherman is in ruins…no need to stop here
The Atlantic Bridge

Every week during their visit we went to the club at Coronado Luxury Club & Suites.  Jen and I are members, and we enjoy the entertainment on Saturday nights.  That first week we enjoyed a comedian in the Sports Bar followed by Pascal Turner at the pool bar.  We especially enjoy Pascal, and, fortunately, he played every Saturday night during their visit with us.  Pascal often invites me to sing with him and it has become something for which I look forward.  The third Saturday we took our special guests to the fine dining restaurant at the club, Secundo Piso.  We invited friends John and Barbie to join us.  This was a special treat, and it is one of the places which we highly recommend.  Reservations are required and they are only open on weekends.  In the past, non-members have been welcomed at the resort on Saturday night.

Mom and Rich take the opportunity to dance
We did too
John and Barbie got in a little Salsa

Also, that last week in Coronado Mom and Rich spent three nights at the resort hotel to give us all a break from each other.  Jen and I get free nights every year with our paid membership, and we wanted them to have a special treat.  They hung out by the resort pool and got waited on.  Rich wanted to order foo foo drinks with fruit and little umbrellas.  I wish we had pictures of that.  During one of those days at the resort, we got together for a special late lunch at the Beach Club.  The Beach Club is reserved for members and resort guests.  We had a nice lunch and missed the last shuttle back.  I wish they had let us know that it would be the last, but we were hardly done eating when it came.  The staff sent us back on the employee bus.  Someone suggested that we just stay and sleep on the beach.  That was not an option…LOL.

A bird’s eye view of the beach at the club
Mom and Rich at the Beach Club

Almost every Tuesday we ventured to the movie.  The local theater, Cine Moderno, plays movies in English every Tuesday, and it is a favorite way to spend Tuesday evening in the community.  We always meet up with many friends there and enjoy the show.  For Jubilado’s (retired people), the movie plays for $2.50 USD each.  They have great refreshments also at a reasonable price. I put the movie schedule in my newsletter every week, but recently they have added more shows in English on other days.  I cannot always put all the shows and times, so check with the theater for additional showtimes.  Rich said he had not been to the movies in years, and both he and mom thoroughly enjoyed this activity…even if the movie was not always something we would normally go out of our way to see.

We ventured to Santa Clara to another of our favorite places on the beach, Deliciosa Del Mar.  We invited friends, Lorin and Judy, along for what we hoped would be a lobster feast.  Judy gets the credit for the magnificent sunset photo in the featured position above. Unfortunately, we missed the beginning of Lobster season by a few weeks.  We all still had some great fresh seafood before venturing onto the beach.  Everyone had a great time people watching and swimming in the ocean.  This little restaurant has palapas on the beach where you can eat or have drinks.  They rent them to people who do not order from them, but they are free to patrons.  We all had a great time.

Yes, we got in a swim
Mom and Rich hanging out in the palapa
Lorin and Judy walking the beach
Mom and Rich wade in

That last Friday night in Coronado we caught up with Mike and Diane for a great dinner at Café Med. We always seem to get a great meal there and this visit was no exception.

The ambience at Café Med is stunning

To cap off our month of adventures with Mom and Rich, we went from Coronado to Panama City at the beginning of Carnival traffic.  Travel into the city can be a challenge during Carnival.  We soon encountered the lane inversion and we were sharing our side of the highway with traffic heading to the beaches.  This was not horrible, but it slowed down our journey.  We anticipated travel challenge, so we wanted to have plenty of time to get them near the airport for their journey home on March 1st.  This gave us a couple of days to adventure in the city.

The lane inversion

When we crossed the Bridge of the Americas, the decision was made to check out the Amador Causeway and go to the Biodiversity Museum.  This is something that all of our past visitors have enjoyed, and we knew that Mom and Rich would love the experience as well.  We were not wrong.  The Biodiversity Museum is something that no visitor to Panama should miss.  We went down the causeway for lunch and some souvenir shopping, followed by our visit to the museum.  After the museum, we checked into our hotel at the Radisson Panama Canal.

Check out the huge Fig Tree
Panama City skyline from Amador Causeway Love the new Sombreros!
See the Biodiversity Museum over Rich’s shoulder?

Even after almost four years living in Panama, I look for new adventures when we have company.  Sometimes the new adventures are a giant failure, but this one was a definite high and one of the best experiences for myself.  On Saturday evening we ventured to the JW Marriott (former Trump Tower) for a ringside seat on the 66th floor for sunset.  The pool bar is owned by the casino and only accessible through the casino.  The elevator will only stop at the parking garage or the 66th floor unless someone has a key to stop elsewhere.  When we exited the elevator, we were welcomed into an amazing outside venue with an infinity pool, and our reserved table was waiting for us next to the pool.  The views of the city and sunset were unbelievable.  We enjoyed a light dinner (pub food) and drinks while we watched the sunset.  This will be another of those experiences that we share with others.  If you get the chance, do not miss this one.

The following morning, we were whisked away by shuttle to a boat dock in the middle of the Gamboa Rain Forest where we caught our boat.  It is definitely a small world when every one else on the tour bus is from the Grand Rapids, Michigan area, really close to where mom and Rich live!  The Pacific Queen took us on a partial transit of the Panama Canal.  Rich was so intrigued by the canal that we could not deny him this experience.  When we departed the dock, we had a few drops of rain which quickly subsided.  Our boat went south on the Panama Canal as the guide told us interesting facts about what we were seeing.  We traveled past a Pana Max ship, the largest of container ships.  We would see this ship later passing through the big new lock at Miraflora while we were passing through the smaller locks.  We passed the prison where Noriega spent the last years of his life, and several big dredging cranes.  The Gaillard Cut, which was formally known as the Culebra Cut, is where most of the lives were lost in the construction of the canal.  It is the narrow mountain pass taking the canal through the Continental Divide.  This stretch of the canal requires constant maintenance due to the mud slides and silt accumulating in its bottom.  This is where the canal authority spends the majority of its maintenance budget.

The prison where Noriega was incarcerated
Titan, the biggest crane on the canal
This is a large Pana Max ship. We passed it after entering the canal from the dock in Gamboa
Our transit vessel, The Pacific Queen

We continued through the cut and past the Centennial Bridge before reaching the Pedro Miguel Lock. We moved into the lock which we shared on this journey with another tour boat, a small cargo vessel, and a larger ship.  We were lowered in the lock to the level of Mira Flores Lake.  Mira Flores Lake is a manmade lake connecting the Pedro Miguel lock with the Mira Flores Locks.  Once across the small lake, we entered the Mira Flores locks once again sharing with the other three vessels. Mira Flores has two locks taking us down to sea level.  After passing through all three locks, we moved on toward the Pacific and our destination port.  We passed under the Bridge of the Americas, then past our hotel and the Amador Causeway before rounding the point and making dock at the Port of Panama.  The total time of our excursion was right around 5 hours.  Previously, Jen and I did a full passage which took around 12 hours.  The partial passage was much better, as the full passage took several hours crossing Lake Gatun.

A small cargo vessel entering the lock at Pedro Miguel ahead of us
The Welcome Center at the Mira Flores Locks.
The Centennial Bridge. See the Gaillard Cut (part of it) as we approach.
This is the 1st lock at Mira Flores. You can see the last lock ahead of us.
While going through the locks we were next to this other tour boat.
Moving out from the locks toward the Pacific
Every vessel has a pilot from the canal authority during transit. This is our pilot departing the vessel.
Welcome to Port Panama

Our day was not over.  We went back to the hotel for a minute, and Marc Vargas picked us up for a little tour of Casco Viejo.  We wanted to have another sunset experience from a rooftop in Casco.  Marc selected Tantalo, where we had a bite to eat and watched the sunset from a different perspective.  Marc graciously showed us around a little, and we took in the amazing sites of Casco Viejo.  This is one of those places that really requires an entire day.  If you are fortunate enough to get to this neighborhood, check out the many plazas, the churches, The Panama Canal Museum (among others), the artisan vendors, architecture, restaurants, coffee shops, chocolatiers, souvenir shops, and do not miss the rooftop bars.

A short walk through Casco Viejo
Cool picture…Thanks, Marc
Bring on the food and drinks
the main Cathedral of Panama
Another cool picture. This is a panorama before the sun began setting.

On their last day in Panama, we mostly just rested from exhaustion.  We relocated to a hotel near the airport, got covid tests, and shopped in a mall nearby.  Jen and I are still recovering here, and I imagine that mom and Rich are doing the same in Florida.

Our visitors waiting to be tested with their capable translator
El Hombre de La Mancha at the Metro Mall
They had it in stock

For more information about adventuring in Panama, grab a copy of my book 2 Retire In Panama?.  It is available at Amazon, on Kindle (Kindle Unlimited Readers get it free), and at El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores in Panama.  I am sharing some links below for some of the adventures and sites that contributed to this great month of adventures with my folks.

Blessings From Paradise,

Greg and Jen

#welovepanama

 

Casa del Jamon

Coronado Bible Church

Coronado Luxury Club & Suites

2 Retire In Panama?

Tantalo

Panama Canal Tour

El Hombre de La Mancha bookstores

Gold Coast Brewery

Marc Vargas

Biodiversity Museum

Pascal Turner

El Valle de Anton

Panama Viejo

Cine Moderno Coronado

Casco Viejo

Café Med